Twenty Five Lusk

Not since the giddy days of the dotcom boom has San Francisco seen anything this glamorous South of Market. The name refers to the address—down an obscure alley in a 1917 meat-processing warehouse. Inside, the huge bi-level space combines original brick and exposed timbers with glass and polished metal. A slick bar and lounge with steel ski-lodge fireplaces occupies the lower floor; upstairs diners view the kitchen through glass panels, where chef Matthew Dolan crafts intricately composed plates of local, seasonal ingredients. If you can tear yourself away from all the fabulousness around you, try offerings such as seared ahi tuna with radish gazpacho, foraged mushrooms, arugula and smoked eggplant. The extensive bar menu includes a Bavarian soft pretzel Gruyčre fondue and crispy duck wings.