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Penny Roma
Photograph by Krescent Carasso; courtesy of Penny Roma

12 hours in San Francisco

Your perfect day, planned

Clara Hogan
Written by
Clara Hogan
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If you only have half a day in San Francisco, let it be full of carbs, cocktails and stunning views. Ditch the tourist traps and spend time exploring what really makes the city so magnificent: its neighborhood eateries and green spaces, with some weed thrown in—if you partake. Luckily, SF is pretty small and dense, with plenty of transport options to get around easily. Here’s an itinerary for a perfect day in San Francisco that’s sure to leave you full and happy.

12 hours in San Francisco

San Francisco is home to some of the best bakeries in the country. While Tartine and B. Patisserie are no doubt iconic options, our choice (if we have to make one) is Craftsman and Wolves. This Mission-based pâtisserie is arguably the most innovative of the bunch. Sure, here you can find exquisite kouign amanns, croissants and other classics. But their best singular invention is "the Rebel Within.” This perfectly cooked sausage-cheese-onion muffin featuring an entire egg inside, yolk still gooey and all, will blow your mind. Pair it with a latte and your day just got the perfect start.

It’s time to walk off those pastries with a short stroll to one of the city’s most popular green spaces, Dolores Park. This nearly 16-acre park features soaring palm trees, spectacular views of the city’s skyline, dog runs, sports courts and plenty of grassy lawn. Join locals from all walks of life and pick a spot on the hill to unwind. Sit back and watch the fog roll over the city and all of the happy dogs running around. Make the experience even more serene by grabbing some cannabis from nearby Flore Dispensary.

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You’ve likely worked up an appetite again, especially if you took our suggestion to swing by Flore. Make your way to the Presidio, the national park and former military post at the northern tip of the city that offers outdoor recreation, museums and stunning views. Recently, several restaurants have opened in old military buildings, including Colibri. Located in the historic Presidio Officers’ Club, this eatery offers a Mexico City dining experience with authentic family recipes, homemade tortillas and smoky mezcal cocktails. Grab a spot inside or on their spacious outdoor patio (complete with necessary heat lamps).

Eat, drink, walk. You’re sensing a San Francisco theme. After wrapping up your meal, make your way down to the Tunnel Tops park, a project 30 years in the making that finally opened this year. The 14-acre green space, located on top of the busy Presidio Parkway highway tunnels, was designed by the same firm behind New York’s High Line. It features picnic sites, a campfire circle, trails and native plant gardens—plus stunning views of the bay and Golden Gate Bridge.

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In a city full of next-level cocktail bars, Liliana stands out as one of the best. It’s the sister bar and lounge to Osito, San Francisco's 100 percent live-fire restaurant from chef Seth Stowaway. Wood-lined and dimly lit, Liliana bartenders are masters of their craft, mixing twists on classics like a white negroni with fennel gin, dill, and vermouth, or a savory martini with vodka, tomato water, marigold, blanc vermouth and celery bitters. The bar also offers champagne, wine and beer in addition to an elevated bar food menu with dishes coming out of the Osito kitchen. We recommend trying one or a few of the small dishes, but saving room for dinner.

The Mission’s Flour + Water by Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow has been one of SF's most acclaimed restaurants in the city since it opened in 2009. It recently debuted its first major renovation, with a completely refreshed menu, too. If you can snag a reservation, don't hesitiate. But we also recomend its more casual sister restaurant, Penny Roma, which recently opened in the same neighborhood and is easier to walk in or book a last-minute reservation to. Pasta is still the shining star, but dishes lean traditional Italian rather than Cal-Ital. Indulge in the mouthwatering focaccia and as many pasta dishes that you can.

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Take a car to the Inner Sunset to end your day at cocktail haven Bar Nonnina. We promise it will be worth the trip. Hidden inside Italian restaurant Fiorella Sunset, this 14-seat bar offers a highly curated and rotating menu of craft cocktails featuring what’s in season. Opt for a flight of three if you want to try the bar’s range, from a lambrusco slushy to the bourbon-based Cafe Nonnina that includes coffee liquer, cold brew, aztec chocolate bitters and whipped cream. Saddle up to one of the high tops and enjoy the intimate atmosphere, made all the more cozy with a roaring fireplace behind the bar. Goodnight, San Francisco.

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