The ultimate cold noodle dish to me is still milmyeon, or wheat noodles, from my hometown of Busan. As a child, on Saturdays when my mother didn’t feel like cooking, she would hand me a 10,000 won note and say, “Get three servings from the milmyeon restaurant up front.” Around lunchtime on Saturdays, I naturally dream of those wheat noodles, served in pork broth, with a spoonful of spicy seasoning. It’s a pity there are barely any food milmyeon joints in Seoul. At least Gangnam Milmyeon by Gangnam Station attempts to recreate the taste my mother used to like. Even though Gangnam station and wheat noodles don’t really go together.