Goheung-gun, Jeollanam-do is a county consisting of the Goheung Peninsula and 175 small islands. Relatives of the restaurant owner send over the ingredients, and their produce, such as lettuce, pepper, eggplant and cabbage, are grown at a farm in Guri. Goheungman’s signature dish is the cockles special that uses Beolgyo cockles. Ten different in-season side dishes and a basket-full of savory steamed cockles, seasoned cockles, fried cockles jeon (pancake), cockles with vinegar dressing and seaweed fulvescens soup are the first to arrive at the table, while the sole fish and flathead fish are being prepared in the kitchen. Cockles are the best in winter, so September might be a tad early to fully enjoy them. However, finished with a glass of fresh green plum tea, the whole meal is both satisfying and comforting.