Another mainstay of alternative culture in Hongdae, CTR Jebi houses a variety of projects in one building: During the day, the first floor is Jebi Dabang, a café that sells reasonably priced coffee. At night, the signboard slides over to transform its name into “Chwihan Jebi,” which means “drunken swallow” (the bird, not the verb). Jebi is best known for hosting a large number of indie bands every week on its basement stage, which is open to the first floor as well. Its upper floors also house an architect’s office, a publishing house (known for the magazine One Piece), and a one-room recording studio that anyone can rent for 20,000 won an hour. It can get crowded, especially when bigger names take the stage, so come early for a seat on concert nights. Or simply sit on the wooden deck with a beer in hand and enjoy the music floating up from below.