The word brasserie conjures up worn but polished counters, nonchalant mustachioed servers and delicious, simple French cuisine served unpretentiously at reasonable prices. Maison de la Catégorie gets almost all of these right (maybe not the mustaches, but we’ll be reasonable). Unlike many of the fine dining establishments that fill Cheongdam, they focus on simple, filling dishes and familiar dessert favorites. Their shrimp soufflé and lamb are both excellent entrée selections, and the ice-box cake layered with cream and cookies is wildly popular (with good reason). About that atmosphere: Maison de la Catégorie is more than a corner brasserie. It’s beautifully appointed, with high ceilings and an eye-catching terrace. Well-arranged lighting guarantees a cozy dinner atmosphere, though of course day-lit meals or drinks are just as attractive in this space. In fact, one of the world’s most renowned interior architects, Adam Tihany, was involved in the design.