Ojangdong Heungnamjip opened its doors in 1953. Together with Ojangdong Hamheung Naengmyeon and Sinchang Myeonok, it forms a famous trio of North Korean naengmyeon (cold noodles) restaurants in the neighborhood of Ojang-dong. But of these three, Ojangdong Heungnamjip is known to have the largest portions. The place is popular with North Korean refugees, and many of their patrons tend to be on the older side. “Hamheung Naengmyeon” consists of chewy noodles made primarily from sweet potato starch, mixed with a sauce containing generous amounts of red pepper powder, spring onion and garlic. The dominant flavor of the dish is in the sauce. Top with young ray or hoe (raw fish) according to your taste, and you have hoe naengmyeon. Top with minced meat, and you have bibim (mixed) naengmeyon. And of course, we can’t forget the sesame oil. Its savoriness offsets the roughness of the spicy flavors and stimulates the appetite. Nor can we overlook the contribution of the steaming meat broth, with its complex flavors.