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[title]Even among Japan’s famously idiosyncratic fashion royalty, Chisato Tsumori stands out. Her namesake Tsumori Chisato label, noted for its fantastical combinations of handmade embroidery, glitter and vibrant illustrations, made its international debut in Paris in 2003 and has since developed a worldwide fan base enamoured with its creator’s poetic, dreamlike aesthetic. Having just celebrated 35 years in the industry, the 71-year-old Tsumori continues to walk her own path. Here’s what keeps her going and motivated.
What inspires you nowadays?
I’ve loved animation ever since I was little – Osamu Tezuka and Disney, in particular – always imagining all sorts of things in my head. That hasn’t changed to this day. My favourite things are the source of my ideas, and they’ve remained the same for 35 years.
Once I got into travelling, I would absorb unfamiliar landscapes and colour palettes and connect them to my work. When the pandemic made it impossible to travel, I started going on journeys in my mind. I expand my imagination by fantasising about fictional worlds. I enjoy thinking of things like what outer space might look like, and what creatures might live there.
You’re known for your commitment to artisanship. What’s special about working by hand?
I’m an analogue purist. Whenever I'm presenting a new collection, I draw directly onto backdrop paper and carve foam boards to create the three-dimensional parts. Everything you see is handmade.
When I work with my hands, I feel as if their warmth, the human touch, infuses the pieces. I prioritise natural materials like cotton, silk and linen whenever possible.
I wear only my own label’s clothes every day, from daily wear to pajamas. Since I’m my own biggest customer, I design honestly, according to my own feelings. Seeing others find joy in that makes me truly happy.
I have a bit of a contrarian streak, so if I were to ask ChatGPT to tell me what’s mainstream, I’d probably think, ‘So that’s what I won’t do, then’ [laughs].
My Harajuku showroom is currently open only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. We operate on a made-to-order basis: we create samples first, and production only begins after a customer places their order. This allows for sustainable manufacturing and the reduction of waste.
What’s your favourite restaurant?
I mostly eat Japanese food these days. Places like Ohitsuzen Tanbo and Okamado Meshi Torafuku serve delicious rice – and they let you go for seconds!