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When you find yourself in need of a bath or sauna session on the west side of Tokyo, make a beeline for Tsurunoyu in Chofu. A traditional bathhouse that had been serving the local community since 1952, it closed down in July 2025, undone by the failing health of both the previous owner and the aging equipment. But unlike so many fellow shuttered sento across the capital, instead of being turned into a parking lot, Tsurunoyu bubbled back to life in April 2026 under new management in the wake of a successful crowdfunding drive.
The born-again soak spot is now helmed by the enterprising Masayuki Sagara, a former engineer and bathhouse enthusiast who had helped revive three other endangered sento across Japan before breaking out on his own by assuming ownership of Tsurunoyu. Open from 6am to 1am (with a two-hour cleaning break before noon), six days a week, it stands out with a quirky mix of old-school communal bathing and modern urban wellness. Sagara prides himself on catering equally to all comers – be they tattooed sauna heads, young families or local retirees.
Past the bare-bones but comfortable lobby area and changing rooms lie an array of vintage tubs including jet massage baths, an ‘electric’ bath and an ultrasonic bath. The lightly radium-enriched bath, another blast from the past, is gentle in temperature and has the added attraction of hosting hundreds of colourful rubber ducks sure to intrigue young bathers. Body soap, shampoo and conditioner are available for free in the bathing areas, and there’s no extra fee for hair dryer use either.
Visitors from far and wide seek out Tsurunoyu for its saunas. The steam rooms – one on the men’s side, one on the women’s – are both set to near-scalding, but the aromas emitted by herbal oils and fresh birch branches on the walls make the heat feel slightly less intense. For a more mellow experience, check out the 85-degree barrel sauna on the men’s side. The only one of its kind at a Tokyo sento, this snug sweat room offers self-löyly, opportunities to strike up conversation with fellow bathers, and the chance to cool off in style – either in the cold plunge, kept at a reasonable 18 degrees with a steady flow of well water, or lounging on chairs under the open sky, gazing up at Tsurunoyu’s handsome chimney.
Rehydrate post-bath with herbal tea – the ¥500 all-you-can-drink deal lets you sample all three of their proprietary blends – craft beer from the likes of Far Yeast, Brooklyn Brewery and Ise Kadoya, a lemon sour, or the customary bottle of cold milk. For a different chill treat, raid the freezer for Kabajirushi popsicles and craft gelato from Fukuoka. And if you’re looking for a souvenir, know that Tsurunoyu stocks a plentiful selection of original merch, including towels, T-shirts, beer glasses and stickers.
Both cash and cashless payments are accepted. Wednesday is Ladies’ Day, when the sides are changed up and women get to sweat it out in the barrel sauna.
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