For most Japanese people, sushi is associated not so much with Tokyo but rather with Edo, the city's original name. When Edo became Tokyo in 1868, it was not only social systems but also other aspects of culture such as food, clothing, housing, music and fine art that went through rapid Westernisation. In this context, sushi is considered a symbol of nostalgia, representing the Edo culture that has been preserved from the 19th century and continues to be loved today.
If you want to get a feel for Edo style, including the ambience inside a restaurant, try Kizushi in Ningyocho. Their wooden building is more than 60 years old and was originally used as an okiya (lodging house for geishas). Ryuichi Yui, who is the third and current chef of the restaurant, describes the business as 'digging deeper into tradition, rather than being attracted by the latest trends'. 'We are classical sushi, so to speak,' he adds.
In addition to orthodox sushi items like tuna, cooked clam and conger eel, the menu also has more uncommon items such as ika no inrou zume (boiled squid stuffed with gourd shavings, ginger, nori seaweed and rice) and tazuna maki (sushi presented as slices of vinegar-marinated gizzard shad, rice and slices of boiled shrimp). Although this is a long-established sushi restaurant, the staff make sure guests, especially first-timers, feel comfortable when they visit.