Emma Steen

Dotted along the Seto Inland Sea off the southern coast of Kagawa prefecture is a series of islands that comprise one of Japan’s largest – and more successful – art initiatives. Established roughly 30 years ago as a scheme to boost tourism in the region, the project spans several islands including Teshima, Inujima and Ogijima, each houses a series of site-specific art installations and galleries. The most famous art island of the lot, however, is Naoshima, where the first permanent artwork of the project was installed in 1989.  More than a destination that just happens to feature a lot of art, the entire island is a walkable canvas of public installations and revered buildings designed by luminary architects including Tadao Ando. You’ve seen pictures of the island’s most iconic permanent art pieces including Yayoi Kusama’s yellow pumpkin, but photos will never compare to the near-transcendental experience of exploring Naoshima on foot and seeing these pieces in-person. Additionally, it's now a great time to plan a visit as the Setouchi Triennale returns this year from April 18 to November 9. Tickets for a guided tour of the island  RECOMMENDED: Check out our ultimate guide to the Setouchi area This guide was recently updated by Tokyo-based writer Emma Steen. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. While we might not stay in every hotel featured below, we'

An upscale district in Tokyo, Ginza is often associated with towering skyscrapers that host a myriad of luxury fashion boutiques and multi-story department stores. The abundance of flagship stores also makes Ginza an ideal destination for shoppers seeking high-end brands and Japan-exclusive products. While retail therapy is an undeniable allure of this neighbourhood, it offers much more than just shopping. Ginza boasts an impressive selection of acclaimed restaurants, time-honoured cafés, and a rich art scene that could take more than a day to appreciate fully. During weekends and public holidays (12noon-5pm), the main road is closed off to traffic and turns into a pedestrian haven, with tables and chairs replacing cars. It's the perfect time for leisurely strolls and alfresco dining – in the middle of an otherwise busy thoroughfare.  So the next time you find yourself in Ginza, be sure to venture beyond the glittering shops to discover these unique spots that offer a different taste of this sophisticated district. RECOMMENDED: Best restaurants in Ginza: sushi, tonkatsu, ramen and more

Omakase? In this economy? We know it’s hard to believe, but there are plenty of fine dining restaurants in Tokyo where you can treat yourself to a seasonal course dinner for less than ¥10,000. The word ‘omakase’ typically comes up at high-end Japanese restaurants where in lieu of ordering from a menu, diners entrust the chef to serve a selection of recommended dishes and seasonal specials. While it's true that these gastronomic affairs are generally reserved for a special occasion splurge, they don’t have to break the bank. Nor are they strictly limited to Japanese cuisine.  Omakase dining is all about the joy of anticipating what the chef might serve, marvelling at the near-choreographed way they work in the open kitchen, and savouring the best ingredients of the season. It’s a culture that chefs across Tokyo hold dearly, with many incorporating omakase into their restaurants regardless of whether they’re serving Spanish tapas or charcoal-grilled yakitori.  With so many restaurants offering their own interpretation of omakase dining, the line between omakase courses and tasting menus are sometimes blurred. However, it’s the integrity and intimacy of these tailored dining experiences that define them, rather than the terms used to label them. Want to treat yourself on a budget? Here are Tokyo’s best omakase courses and tasting menus for under ¥10,000. Looking for something quick and simple but still delicious? Try one of these 22 best ramen in Tokyo

You can’t say you’ve seen Osaka until you’ve been to Dotonbori. The entertainment district is perhaps Osaka’s most famous draw, known for its bustling streets filled with delicious street food, exciting nightlife and colourful neon signs – including the iconic Glico running man, a symbol of the area since 1935 – plus the massive Don Quijote store with a ferris wheel. Besides taking it all in on a wide-eyed stroll, you can sample local specialities like takoyaki and okonomiyaki, shop for souvenirs, and explore the many fascinating attractions that make this vibrant neighbourhood a must-visit destination. RECOMMENDED: The 12 best things to do in Osaka

There are lots of ways to enjoy a hot-spring bath, and they don’t all have to involve a two-hour journey out of the city (although we love those kinds of getaways, too). No, we’re talking about super sento, those sumptuous city-centre baths where you can get all the benefits of a rejuvenating onsen getaway without the added cost of staying in a ryokan. Super sentos are one step above the budget-friendly, communal bathhouses that you see in nearly every Tokyo neighbourhood. They often span multiple storeys, featuring not only multiple baths and saunas but also a host of facilities that make it easy for you to spend an entire day there, like cafés, manga libraries, massage rooms and even cocktail bars. Join us on this soothing journey through Tokyo's top super sento, where convenient relaxation is just a dip away.RECOMMENDED: Best onsen and sento in Tokyo for people with tattoos

Despite being one of the most advanced cities in the world, Tokyo has a lack of late-night public transport options. In fact, the trains end their service around 1am and only resume at about 4.30am. This can leave you with a dilemma. On a night out with friends, as the clock ticks down, you know you ought to leave in time for the last train. You announce this to your group, swearing that the drink in your hand will be your last. Alas, time slips by and before you know it, you’ve missed the last train home. You’re now faced with three options: a pricey taxi ride, an even more costly hotel room or staying out until the trains start running again the next morning. Thankfully, for those opting for the third way, there are plenty of exciting venues in Shinjuku, Shibuya and Roppongi to provide you with all kinds of enjoyment until the dawn trains depart. Here are our favourites. RECOMMENDED: guided walking tours to see the best sides of Tokyo

Those pesky layovers and flight delays at Narita Airport will go by a little faster with the new Japan Food Hall that just opened in Terminal Two. The new dining facility marks a significant upgrade to the airport's dining scene, previously lacking in the waiting area beyond passport control. Unlike the usual airport food courts, Japan Food Hall isn't about rushed bites. Hosting ten outposts of popular restaurants across Japan, this facility is tailored for those desiring a swift yet sumptuous meal while in transit. Now, you can indulge in one last proper Japanese meal such as sushi, marbled beef cutlets and okonomiyaki before boarding. Here are five places we recommend checking out the next time you’re in Narita Airport terminal two. Note: Japan Food Hall is open from 7.30am to 10pm. However, each of the restaurants may have differing operating hours. Flying out from Haneda Airport instead? Here are the best places to eat, shop and soak in an onsen at the city airport.

With the weather warming up, we're not far away from Tokyo's cherry blossom season, with the flowers expected to start blooming from mid-March. Hanami (cherry blossom-viewing) picnics are one of the most popular ways to enjoy the flowers during the daytime, but there are plenty of opportunities to admire the pink blossoms in the evening, too. Many parks, gardens, temples, shrines and streets in Tokyo have special illuminations and light-up events when the sakura trees are in full bloom – so you can still admire these pink blossoms in the dark. Here are some of the best places in Tokyo to see spectacular cherry blossom illuminations in the evening.  RECOMMENDED: Best places to see cherry blossoms in Tokyo

Nothing elicits more excitement in Japan than cherry blossom season. These delicate pink flowers bloom for just two weeks annually, so everyone clears their schedule for hanami picnics and long strolls in the parks. A single cherry tree along an otherwise drab, unremarkable road is enough to transform the street and stop pedestrians in their tracks for photos. Still, it’s worth going the extra mile to seek stunning settings that enhance the blossoms’ beauty. We’ve already got a list of the best places in Tokyo for sakura spotting, but there are just as many trees to see in other prefectures, too. Here are the top sites and festivals to check out in Japan, even after Tokyo’s blooms fade. Note: the dates in this feature may change depending on weather conditions. See the latest flowering forecast here. RECOMMENDED: The greatest cherry blossom trees of Japan

Tokyo is famous for its urban sprawl, but you're never far from some greenery amid the skyscrapers. There are spacious parks and verdant nature escapes within the city limits, perfect for enjoying the warmer weather. But Tokyo is also home to its fair share of beautiful Japanese gardens. Garden design is an important Japanese art form with an intricate history partially rooted in Zen Buddhism. Elements such as ponds and stones represent both physical aspects of the Earth and abstract concepts relating to spirituality, whereas tea houses and stone water bowls add a scenic component to the space, making it more hospitable to guests. Over time, Japanese gardens have evolved to serve different purposes, but the traditional concept of combining the elements of stone, water, foliage and man-made features has remained an integral part of creating these unique havens for finding solitude and admiring the four seasons. Due to the asymmetry and meticulous approach to each garden’s design, no two are alike – which is apt given that they are also intended to reflect the transient nature of the changing seasons. Here are some of the most celebrated Japanese landscape gardens in Tokyo, which offer particularly fine examples of all the elements that make up a traditional nihon teien (Japanese garden). RECOMMENDED: Rise above the crowds at these rooftop gardens in Tokyo

Welcome to Amerikamura, or Amemura as it’s known by locals, one of Osaka’s most bustling retail and entertainment districts. With a strong American influence, Amemura is filled with an eclectic mix of Western-inspired fashion and trendy bars. The district’s name, which translates to ‘America Town’, is a testament to the area’s culture and history – it’s been a centre of youth culture since the early 1970s. Just a ten-minute walk from Dotonbori, Amemura is a popular destination for young trendsetters who come to shop, socialise and enjoy the vibrant nightlife. The district boasts some exceptional bars, which serve up everything from classic cocktails to craft beers and Japanese-inspired tipples. Whether you’re looking for a laid-back atmosphere or a more upscale experience, you’re sure to find a bar that suits your taste in Amemura. RECOMMENDED: 13 best things to do in Minami

Long before popular third-wave coffee shops and cafés started taking over the city, Tokyoites got their coffee fix at traditional kissaten tea rooms and coffee shops. Even though many of them also serve light refreshments and simple meals, these Tokyo institutions were more than just a caffeine stop in the good old days. They were the social centres for the community. While not as common today, these cherished Showa-era (1926-1989) establishments are now experiencing a resurgence as people are drawn to the nostalgic charm of kissaten and the refuge they provide from the fast-paced world. When you step into one of these enduring Tokyo institutions, it's like stepping back in time, surrounded by the soothing ritual of meticulously hand-poured coffee and the slower, more thoughtful pace of days gone by. RECOMMENDED: 7 best cafés for latte art in Tokyo

One defining aspect of Tokyo’s dining culture is its plethora of intimate, open kitchens that seat less than a dozen guests at a time. That Rama caters to just nine diners at a time for a Japanese-Italian tasting menu is not unusual in the city’s burgeoning modern omakase scene, but this sleek and warmly lit venue along an unassuming street in Shirokane is still a stand-out.  What makes Rama a new favourite among our ever-growing list of Tokyo’s finest restaurants is the way head chef Katsuhiro Aoki manages to deliver food that is playful, elegant, unpretentious and genuinely delicious all at once. An autumn menu might begin with a twist on Caprese salad with sautéed persimmons in lieu of tomatoes, whereas chilled gnocchi with mackerel and tart raspberry vinegar would be served to convey the transition of spring to summer.  The signature dish is a bowl of handmade taglioni crowned with a generous grating of fragrant truffle. Served in a buttery emulsion of homemade chicken stock and 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, the only thing that changes about this pasta across the seasons is the variety of truffle that is sourced directly from Italy, but every bite is as revelatory as the last.  Somewhere between the courses of handmade pasta, Chef Aoki always includes two classic Japanese dishes with his own spin. The first is a single piece of nigiri sushi, expertly shaped and served to diners one by one like a traditional omakase sushi experience. Rather than seasoning the sushi with so

If you're after top-notch sushi without the high price tag and are willing to skip the chairs and warm towelettes, head to Tachiguizushi Akira. This stand-and-eat sushi spot, known in Japanese as tachigui, caters to those looking for a quick bite between appointments or a snack with a drink without waiting for a table. Taciguizushi Akira, a sister establishment of the introduction-only Sushi Shoryu, offers a twist on the concept, allowing diners to enjoy high-end sushi without needing a special connection or spending a fortune. While the setup is modest, the sushi is exceptional. The uni rolls (from ¥1,100) are piled so high with creamy sea urchin that they seem on the verge of tipping over, while the aburi nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch, ¥1,540) is seared so delicately that it practically glistens on the serving counter. With pieces like honmaguro (bluefin tuna) nigiri starting at ¥440, a satisfying meal typically costs between ¥6,000 and ¥8,000 per person, though this is still a fraction of what you'd pay for comparable quality at a seated sushi restaurant. Just be prepared to arrive early – the absence of seating hasn't kept Tokyo's dedicated sushi lovers from lining up well before opening.

Just one year after establishing his fashion house in 1946, French designer Christian Dior launched his first fragrance, which would become his eponymous label's signature scent. Created in homage to his sister and World War II resistance fighter Catherine Dior, the perfume featured notes of mandarin, bergamot and gardenia. Floral, feminine and full of life, the Miss Dior scent aptly fits Christian Dior's vision for ‘a fragrance that is like love’ and embodies the spirit and identity of the designer’s haute couture collections. In this seven-room exhibition at Roppongi Museum, you can reacquaint yourself with Dior’s brand and philosophy in the context of the Miss Dior fragrance. Exhibits range from vintage perfume bottles to ready-to-wear couture pieces from different decades of Dior's history. Each room is conceptualised to showcase a different aspect of Miss Dior. In one section, a custom Miss Dior perfume case by artist Eva Jospin is displayed in a domed room inspired by the architecture of the Villa Giulia in Rome, covered in Jospin's embroidered tapestries. In another room, you can see a series of illustrations by René Gruau and Mats Gustafson, the first and current illustrators of the House of Dior. Fragrance may be invisible, but through these pink-tinted installation rooms and whimsical exhibits, the experience of the Miss Dior perfume is made brighter and more vivid than ever. Note: admission to the exhibition is free but you'll need to make a reservation via the Lin

Nagano native Kei Kobayashi was just 15 when he decided he wanted a career in culinary arts. Eager to begin training, Kobayashi left high school early to pick up a full-time job in a local restaurant before moving to France at the age of 21, where he eventually worked for famed chef and restauranteur Alain Ducasse. With three decades of experience under his belt, Koabayshi is now known as the first Asian chef to earn three Michelin stars in France, but the veteran chef has bigger ambitions on the horizon. Following the success of his first restaurant in Paris, Kobayashi is re-establishing his roots in Japan, where he has opened a string of new restaurants serving modern French cuisine highlighting Japanese ingredients. This includes the fine dining restaurant on the 45th floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo, previously known as Azure 45. Renamed Héritage by Kei Kobayashi, the dining space retains its French culinary roots while incorporating Kobayashi's signature flair. Accompanying this French by way of Japanese menu is the sky-high view outside the wall-to-wall windows, which look out to a breathtaking view of Tokyo's modern skyline, with a glimpse of the bay in the distance. A typical meal begins with two types of amuse-bouche. On our visit, Kobayashi served a sliver of comté cheese sandwiched between two paper-thin seaweed crackers, alongside plump hamaguri clams baked in garlic butter breadcrumbs. Every dish is meticulously designed so that the food doesn’t merely look appe

Japanese cuisine relies heavily on traditional dashi (soup stock of kelp and dried bonito fish) and soy sauce to flavour its dishes, so vegetarians and gluten-free diners still have a hard time finding 'safe' Japanese food in the city. That’s where Minoya comes in. This small, homey restaurant sits in the ultra-local neighbourhood of Shin-Okachimachi, on a street lined with vending machines and Showa-era street lamps, with nondescript bicycles parked in front of every other two-storey building. Minoya is a one-man show headed by chef Junji Kawahara, a former white-collar worker who gained respect for vegetable farmers when he quit his corporate job and tried starting his own vegetable patch in Koshigaya. After obtaining a professional license at a culinary school and working at a Japanese restaurant in Yanaka, Chef Kawahara decided to open his own restaurant with an emphasis on farm-to-table vegetable dishes. The restaurant can cater to nine diners at a time with five counter seats and a table for four. Because of its limited capacity, Minoya is by-appointment only. The restaurant isn't strictly vegetarian, but Minoya excels in meeting various dietary preferences and restrictions. Gluten allergies are thoughtfully addressed by substituting wheat flour with rice flour and replacing shoyu (regular soy sauce) with tamari (soy sauce made with little to no wheat). Chef Kawahara’s approach to vegetarian and vegan dishes is creative and balanced, avoiding simple substitutions like t

In the summer of 2023, Yoyogi-Uehara unveiled an exciting new complex. Although modest in size with five stories, Cabo boasts a diverse array of facilities, including office spaces, charming mini bookstores and a stunning cocktail bar-café. A highlight of Cabo is the fresh and innovative fine-dining restaurant Ukiyo, led by the dynamic duo of sommelier Naoto Takeuchi and chef Toshi Akama. Their collaboration blossomed from their shared experience at the Nordic-inspired Meguro restaurant Kabi. Chef Akama, who hails from Canada, stands out in Tokyo's culinary landscape as a rare example of a young chef under 30 leading a restaurant. Despite his youth, his culinary journey is impressive, with stints at prestigious establishments including the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Ikoyi in London. At Ukiyo, Akama crafts modern, seasonal tasting menus that fuse Japanese ingredients with exotic spices from across the globe. His plating style is deceptively simple, yet each element on the plate is a product of meticulous preparation, often requiring several days to perfect. A unique feature of the restaurant is its cooking technique, primarily using a low and slow method over a charcoal grill. This approach not only intensifies the flavours of each ingredient through the smokiness of the red-hot embers but also offers greater control over the cooking process, which sometimes yields an ingenious solution. For instance, during our visit, Chef Akama shared a story of turning disaster into de

Many of the city’s top seafood restaurants pride themselves on having fresh seafood delivered from Toyosu Market every morning, but Kenichi Nemoto takes things one step further at his French seafood restaurant NéMo in Minami-Aoyama. The head chef and owner was an avid fisherman in his youth, thanks to the influence of his grandfather. Though he later went from working as a fisherman to cooking at three-Michelin-star restaurants, Nemoto still works closely with the fishermen he has known as a teenager, who send their catch of the day fresh from the boat to NéMo’s kitchen. This unique relationship means there's no fixed monthly menu at NéMo. Instead, multi-course lunches and dinners are crafted based on the season's bounty. But while daily surprises can range from a crate of sweetfish to a 6kg yellowtail, knowing the best way to prepare each fish comes naturally to Nemoto, whose previous posts include big names like Narisawa and Quintessence.  This season’s menu begins with charcoal-grilled sweetfish that can be eaten from head to tail, served with a cooling sauce of spring onions, nori seafood and wild greens finished with a touch of olive oil. Later, he serves yellowtail pan-seared medium rare, so that the skin is a crisp golden brown and the centre blushes a delicate pink. This is plated with sauteed chanterelle mushrooms, diced tomatoes and basil puree, which manager and head sommelier Yuito Terashima pairs with a bright Sauvignon Blanc to complement the Mediterranean flavo

When in Tokyo, it may seem counterintuitive to seek out restaurants that don’t serve Japanese food. Sometimes, however, an international restaurant is so sensational that it’s worth diverging from the ever-popular offerings of sushi, ramen and yakitori. Tinc Gana is one such venue.  Opened in autumn 2022, this Ichigaya restaurant is Chef Jérôme Quilbeuf’s most upscale establishment yet, with tasting menus that offer modern takes on Spanish cuisine. Quilbeuf describes Tinc Gana as a ‘Gastrobar de Barcelona’, but unlike his open kitchen Gracia in Hiroo, where diners can order from the a la carte menu on a casual weeknight, Tinc Gana has a formal feel to it that makes you want to pull out your best outfit and celebrate a special occasion.  Lunch courses are priced at ¥6,500, ¥9,000 and ¥15,000, while dinner courses are ¥12,000 and ¥19,000. Like the restaurant's interior, which is accented with an olive green kitchen countertop and tall vases of fresh flowers, the dishes here are elegant, bright and vibrant. A meal usually starts with Quilbeuf’s version of salmorejo, which is a fuller, creamier cousin of gazpacho with roots in Andalusia. Here, a refreshing emulsion of fresh tomatoes, onion and green paprika is served with delicate wheels of cucumber and flash-boiled kuruma ebi prawns.  Depending on the season, a dish that might appear later in the course is a spin on arroz negro, a paella-like dish where rice is cooked in squid ink that turns it black. Quilbeuf takes this classic

By now, Makoto Shinkai fans have come to expect a certain formula from the master animator's films: a fated girl-meets-boy scenario and a natural disaster that threatens to wipe out a significant portion of Japan, with a spellbinding backdrop of rural towns and cityscapes. True to form, Shinkai covers all these bases in his latest anime, which follows 17-year-old Suzume (voiced by Nanoka Hara) on her quest to save Japan from calamity.  The story kicks off with Suzume discovering a mystical doorway in some bathhouse ruins near her home. However, before she can uncover the secrets of the portal, she accidentally uproots a kaname-ishi (spirit rock) that turns into a kitten in Suzume’s hands before bolting away. It’s at this moment that a handsome stranger shows up just in time for the magic door to suddenly burst open as a terrifying dark force storms into Suzume’s realm. After his unsuccessful attempt to close the portal of doom, the stranger introduces himself to Suzume as Sota (Hokuto Matsumura) and explains that he's on a mission to locate more doors like the one they just encountered and lock them up. The unfortunate elephant in the room is that this meet-cute involves a man who is ostensibly too old to be a high-school student. Not to worry, though, because the dashing nomad is soon turned into a child-sized chair by the aforementioned spirit-rock-kitten. Knowing that Sota would struggle to survive his mission as a chair, Suzume resolves to accompany him on his journey and

In her feature debut, director AV Rockwell delivers a poignant and stirring portrait of parenthood in a rapidly gentrifying New York City. Set in the mid-’90s, the story casts rising star Teyana Taylor (Coming 2 America) as Inez, who has just been released from Rikers Island. Though she doesn’t have a job or a place of her own, Inez decides to kidnap her six-year-old son Terry from the foster care system, with a firm resolve to give him the best life she can afford.  After securing an apartment and forged identity documents for Terry to ensure he remains undetected by the authorities, Inez is joined by her on-off boyfriend Lucky (William Catlett) and the three of them settle into their new life as a non-traditional family.  The story spans a decade or so, with the passage of time marked by three different actors portraying Terry in different stages of life. Aaron Kingsley Adetola embodies a young and vulnerable six-year-old Terry, while Aven Courtney delivers a compelling performance as a preteen. Eventually, Terry grows into a quiet and academically gifted 17-year-old (Josiah Cross), but by this point, Inez’s carefully crafted facade threatens to unravel when he begins contemplating part-time jobs and university. Throughout it all, however, she never loses focus on her goal of guiding her family through hardships, even as Lucky dips in and out of the picture. Teyana Taylor’s raw, captivating performance showcases her impressive range It’s not a short film and more time could

The combination of camping, rollerskating and Californian sunshine might seem like the promise of a happy, carefree day, but this is far from the case in I’m Fine (Thanks for Asking). Co-directed by Angelique Molina and Kelley Kali, who also plays the film’s protagonist, this soulful pandemic-set drama follows Danny, a recently widowed mum, as she fights to secure housing for herself and her eight-year-old daughter Wes (Wesley Moss).  Though the mother and daughter currently live in a tent, Danny has successfully shielded Wes from the reality of their situation by pretending that they’re only camping for the sake of adventure. Without a car to navigate the LA suburbs, she drops Wes off at a friend’s and scoots between her various gigs with just a pink bum bag to hold her cash and a pair of rollerskates (talk about being a go-getter).  But Danny’s efforts to secure the final $200 she needs to finally afford a flat for her and Wes fall apart when a series of mishaps means she isn’t paid for her scheduled odd jobs. She desperately needs help, but sidesteps her friends’ concerns about her life. This is a refreshingly realistic story about resilience, familial love and adversity  I’m Fine (Thanks for Asking) doesn’t always make it easy to sympathise with Danny’s plight. She sometimes appears to forget the urgency of her situation, like when she abandons her mission to smoke a joint with a pal in a playground. And yet, it’s the way the film presents this dichotomy between languishi

Anyone who caught the film adaptation of Jojo Moyes’s novel ‘Me Before You’ will get a twinge of déjà vu when watching François Ozon’s Everything Went Fine. Like that soapy romantic drama, it deals with the controversial issue of assisted suicide. Rather than a whirlwind romance between a handsome millionaire and a vivacious twentysomething, however, this French drama centres on the rocky relationship between a miserable elderly man and his weary adult daughter.  Everything Went Fine is based on a memoir by Emmanuèle Bernheim, a writer whose collaborations with Ozon have already delivered 2003’s sultry thriller Swimming Pool. Sophie Marceau plays Emmanuèle, who rushes to the hospital at the beginning of the movie upon hearing that her father André (André Dussollier) has suffered a stroke. Shortly after being admitted to hospital, André asks Emmanuèle to arrange for an assisted suicide – a plea André doesn’t back away from even as his physical condition improves. Though André was never a particularly good father, she and her sister find it painful to grapple with their father’s desire to end his life. Eventually, Emmanuèle reluctantly looks into euthanasia at her father’s insistence, thus beginning a months-long application process to move him from his hospital bed in France to an expensive assisted suicide clinic in Switzerland.  You’re left with a nagging feeling that everything could have gone… better Despite impeccable performances from its talented cast, we never get to

Japan’s art island of Naoshima – famous for its site-specific installations and unparalleled museums – is on the bucket list of just about every art lover inside and outside Japan. While the island is small, it takes a full day to explore all the artworks, meaning most visitors opt to spend the night so the have ample time to see all the sights at their own pace.  Photo: A&C Ltd Until now, available accommodation ranged between cosy inns dotted along the island and the long-standing Benesse House – a museum crossed with a hotel. This month, however, the island will get a brand new luxury ryokan called Naoshima Ryokan Rokasumi – just in time for the Setouchi Triennale.  Photo: A&C Ltd The upscale ryokan, which will begin welcoming guests from April 14, will deliver traditional Japanese hospitality with a contemporary twist through kaiseki meals, tatami mat guest rooms and private open-air baths in each of the rooms.  Photo: A&C Like Benesse House, Rokasumi will feature contemporary artworks in all areas of the hotel including the guest rooms. Some of the works will be exhibited as part of Rokasumi’s permanent collection while others will be available for purchase. Among the artists whose works have been selected for the opening are Kohei Nawa and Ryo Shinagawa.  Photo: A&C Ltd Rooms are now available for a rate of ¥42,000 per person per night, with the price including breakfast and dinner. Dinner consists of a modern kaiseki course served at restaurant En, while breakf

A Unesco World Heritage Site, Kyoto’s Nijo Castle is getting a new look this spring with a collaborative digital art event hosted by art collective Naked. This is not the first time the company, led by actor and artistic director Ryotaro Muramatsu, has hosted an immersive light-up display at the 400-year-old castle. Naked have been putting on projection mapping shows at the venue every spring and autumn for a while now. This spring, the spectacular event is scheduled to run from March 14 to April 13.  Photo: Naked, Inc. This edition of ‘Naked meets Nijo Castle Sakura,’ taking place 80 years after the end of World War Two, will feature cherry blossom illustrations drawn by local children. The special art project is a collaborative effort between Muramatsu and the children of Kyoto with the theme of connecting the world with prayers for peace. It’s part of the Dandelion Project, a global participatory art initiative by Muramatsu. Photo: Naked, Inc. Because the event will coincide with Nijo Castle’s cherry blossom festival, the compound’s 300 cherry trees will also be lit up after sundown. There are 50 varieties of sakura on site, including the popular Somei-Yoshino trees, weeping cherry trees and Sato trees. This year, a new picnic area in the cherry blossom garden area will be set up for those who purchase a 'picnic set' sold on-site. Photo: Naked, Inc. The light-up event will run every night from 6pm to 10pm (last entry 9pm). Admission is ¥2,000 for adults and ¥1,000 f

There was a time when ‘vegetarian sushi’ meant you were limited to a sad plate of kappa maki (cucumber rolls) at conveyor belt joints and a rare few high-end (read: bank-breaking) omakase restaurants that were willing to accommodate those who couldn’t eat seafood. This is no longer the reality, with Tokyo catching up to accommodate vegans, vegetarians and plant-based dieters in an increasingly conscientious world, both socially and environmentally. On top of dairy-free ice cream parlours and herbivore-friendly ramen joints, vegans and vegetarians now have access to a quintessential Japanese dining experience known as omakase sushi. Typically, this is a showcase of the chef’s recommendations featuring the best catch of the day and a few popular delicacies like fresh uni or abalone. For many seasoned sushi chefs, a crate of fruit and veg could never live up to a freshly caught bounty of seafood, but Hisashi Udatsu sees things a bit differently from his culinary contemporaries.  Photo: Kisa Toyoshima In a gallery-like space, chef Udatsu adds a fresh, modern perspective to a Japanese native cuisine Hidden away on a quiet residential street in Nakameguro, Udatsu Sushi is built on a concept of combining traditional Edo cuisine with contemporary art by Japanese artists. Ergo, the restaurant is all about embracing new ideas while staying true to traditional roots. Photo: Kisa ToyoshimaGrilled matsutake mushroom Fish-free sushi may deviate from what we consider to be Edomae omaka

A few times a year, the breathtaking Kiyozumi-dera Temple that overlooks Kyoto city hosts special nighttime visits, where the temple’s structures and surrounding foliage are illuminated for a mesmerising display. The Buddhist temple, which is over 1,200 years old, is part of the Unesco World Heritage Site known collectively as the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto. The temple's seasonal light-up events occur every spring, summer and autumn. The annual autumn illumination in 2024 is scheduled to run from November 18 to November 30. While Kiyomizu-dera usually opens from 6am and closes at 6pm, it will extend its hours until 9.30pm (last entry 9pm) for the duration of the event, so visitors will have more time to appreciate the beauty of the temple and its scenery after dark.  View this post on Instagram A post shared by 音羽山 清水寺｜Kiyomizu-dera temple (@feel_kiyomizudera) In addition to the illumination across the temple grounds and Jojuin garden, Kiyozumi-dera will also shine a bright blue beam into the night sky to symbolise the compassion of Kannon, the goddess of mercy enshrined at the temple.  There is a general admission fee of ¥500 for adults and ¥200 for junior high and elementary school students.  This article was originally published on September 22 2022 and updated on September 24 2024. More from Time Out The Great Wave by Hokusai fetched USD889,500 at a New York auction These Kyoto attractions are hosting Naked digital art exper

With a history that stretches back to 727 AD, Katsuo-ji is one of Osaka's oldest and most revered temples. A 90-minute train journey from Osaka Station, this Buddhist sanctuary sits on roughly 65 acres of land and is surrounded by lush hills and nature trails that lead to picturesque waterfalls. Needless to say, the temple grounds are stunning in autumn, as the trees turn into striking shades of red and orange that echo the temple’s vermillion gates and bridges.  Photo: Katsuo-ji Temple Katsuo-ji’s compound is beautiful in daylight, but the temple is now illuminated at night to give you a chance to appreciate the historical site and its beauty after dark. For a limited period until December 1, Katsuo-ji will extend its opening hours to 8.30pm daily (last entry at 8pm), allowing you to revel in the mesmerising interplay of light on the autumn leaves, majestic temple structures and serene pond reflections. Photo: Katsuo-ji Temple Katsuo-ji holds a distinguished place among travellers. It was ranked among Japan’s top ten temples according to a 2023 survey conducted by Japanese travel website Jalan. Beyond its lush natural setting, the temple is instantly recognisable by the thousands of red daruma dolls displayed on the grounds. Photo: Katsuo-ji Temple The name 'Katsuo-ji' is born from the Japanese word for 'winning' (katsu). The daruma dolls are a talisman for good luck, so this is thought to be a temple that people can go to when they're trying to overcome their weakness

Cherry blossom season in Tokyo typically spans from late March to early April, but down in Atami, the pastel pink flowers have already started blooming in some parks. Located less than an hour south of central Tokyo by shinkansen, this seaside city in Shizuoka has a milder climate than our capital and has an abundance of cherry blossom trees that thrive in winter. The early-blooming winter-variety atami-zakura blossoms, specifically, reach their peak between mid-January and early February.  Photo: ©Acao Spa & Resort | アカオ フォレスト One good spot to revel in these prized pink flowers is Acao Forest – a flower park overlooking the Sagami Sea. With roughly 650,000sqm of land divided into 13 themed flower gardens, Acao Forest boasts an impressive array of French roses, sunflowers, tulips, wisteria and other seasonal flowers. From now through March 31, however, it’s all about the sakura.  Photo: Acao Forest To celebrate cherry blossom season, the park is hosting a number of sakura-themed events to get you into the spring mood. For instance, you can try your hand at a series of spring-inspired workshops including a herbarium class where you can preserve flowers in pretty glass bottles (¥3,500), as well as a flower photo frame class (¥5,000) where you can arrange flowers in a photo frame box. To get to Acao Forest by train, hop onto the Tokaido-Sanyo shinkansen bound for Shin-Osaka at Shinagawa and get off at Atami Station (38 minutes). Then board the A64 or A66 bus bound for Ajiro-

Japan has a reputation for its punctual, high-speed bullet trains, which are also highly-rated for being among the safest forms of transport anywhere in the world. For example, since its launch in 1964, the Tokaido Shinkansen rail line between Tokyo and Osaka has maintained a record of zero passenger fatalities while being able to reach a maximum speed of 285km per hour. These impressive numbers are the result of umpteen tests, inspections and safety protocols, including the operation of high-speed test trains that are used to monitor cross-prefectural train tracks and overhead wires. One such train is JR Central’s cheery, bright-yellow seven-car shinkansen fondly known as Doctor Yellow.  Photo: Knotmirai/DreamstimeAn undated stock photo of Dr Yellow shinkansen pulling into Tokyo Station Fitted with special equipment for inspecting the Tokaido Shinkansen tracks, Doctor Yellow doesn’t carry passengers. It also lacks the typical seating of regular shinkansen trains. Because it’s not available for public use, this yellow bullet train's schedule has always been kept under wraps, though it's known to run between Tokyo and Hakata roughly every ten days. Perhaps due to its rarity, Doctor Yellow has become a symbol of good luck for frequent travellers and avid trainspotters. According to urban legend, spotting Doctor Yellow is an omen of future happiness. 【幸せの黄色い新幹線】ドクターイエロー “ラストラン”2001年に運行を開始した車両が29日にラストランを迎えた1964年に開業した東海道新幹線。これまで、列車の脱線や衝突による乗客の死亡事故は0件→安全運行を支えているのが「ドクターイエロー」▼正式名

A town known to receive over three metres of snowfall a year, Niigata prefecture’s Tsunan is one of Japan’s snowiest destinations. Though the sight of frosted windows and thick blankets of white powder might delight visitors in search of a winter wonderland, the constant flurry of snow can grow tedious for locals, so an annual festival was conceived to lift spirits in the area.  Photo: Niigata Prefecture Tourism Association This year's Tsunan Snow Festival is scheduled to take place on March 8. Activities on offer include snow slides and cultural showcases, but the biggest spectacle is the sky lantern event at the New Greenpia Tsunan resort.  Photo: Niigata Prefecture Tourism Association Throughout the day, there will also be food stalls and pop-ups selling hot sake and other beverages to keep you warm. Photo: Niigata Prefecture Tourism Association Tickets are now available online from ¥13,500. Note that tickets include a parking space (you will have to take a shuttle to the event area) and one lantern to participate in the lantern festival. This article was published on January 5 2023 and updated on January 14 2025. More from Time Out Tokyo Takashi Murakami and Louis Vuitton take over Harajuku with a pop-up shop and café Dive into the otherworldly with Mika Ninagawa's latest exhibition at Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art Waymo to begin testing driverless vehicles in Tokyo in early 2025Discover the secrets of scenic Setouchi with our new guide to the Inland Sea region

Earlier this year, a Lawson convenience store in Kawaguchiko became the focus of a debate on overtourism when town officials installed a 20-metre-wide photo barrier opposite the store. The Lawson saw an overwhelming mass of visitors on a daily basis trying to get a snapshot of its modern blue facade against the natural splendour of Japan’s tallest peak, Mt Fuji. This unfortunately led to an uncontrollable crowd of people littering, obstructing pedestrian pathways and even parking illegally just to score some aesthetic shots.  On August 15, however, the screen was temporarily removed due to safety concerns surrounding the approaching Typhoon Ampil. Since the screen's absence, the number of tourists at the site has remained low, leading officials to delay its reinstallation. According to The Mainichi, a town official commented that while the decline in visitors is promising, the screen will be reinstated if disruptive behaviours resurface. The screen, initially installed in May, was upgraded in July to a sturdier brown material after the original black cover was found to be easily damaged. As of August 20, some tourists were still seen taking photos near the clinic, though the crowds were notably smaller than before. Local authorities will continue to monitor the situation closely. More from Time Out The new Nintendo Museum in Kyoto is finally opening this October Suica and Pasmo transport cards to resume sales in September Temperatures in Japan to remain high through Septembe

This October, Universal Studios Japan in Osaka is set to offer an unprecedented experience with its first-ever all-night Halloween Horror Night. For one night only on Friday October 18, you will be able to enter the park at 3pm and enjoy all of USJ’s thrills and attractions through 5am the next day.  Photo: Universal Studios JapanUniversal Studios Japan's Halloween event in 2023 Most of the Halloween-themed events and spectacles for the night will begin at 10pm. You’ll face terrifying zombies in the intense Street Zombie attraction and join in the wildly popular Zombie de Dance, where the entire park moves to the beat of Ado’s hit song, Odo. Photo: USJ Meanwhile, the Hollywood Dream roller coaster is getting a limited-time to revamp, themed after the hit anime franchise ‘Chainsaw Man’. There will also be an exclusive show at Water World featuring energetic Halloween numbers to keep spirits high. The Halloween Horror Night – All Night Pass is priced from ¥12,000. There are limited numbers, so act fast to secure your spot. You will be able to purchase your pass through the website from 2pm on Monday August 19.  Note that this event is strictly for those aged 18 and over. For more information on attractions and ticket availability, visit USJ’s website.  More from Time Out Kyoto ranked as one of the world's most beautiful cities for 2024 These cookies featuring Hello Kitty and her Sanrio friends go on sale next month Where to find all the Pokémon manhole covers in and around

About once every 20 years, Japan redesigns its bank notes as an anti-counterfeit measure. The current ¥1,000, ¥5,000 and ¥10,000 notes were issued in 2004, so it’s time for a refresh. Starting July 3, the Bank of Japan will release a new series of bills to financial institutions across Japan. But don’t panic if you’ve recently withdrawn a significant amount of yen – the old bills will continue to be valid even after the new ones are introduced.   The new design will feature the faces of Shibasaburo Kitasato, Umeko Tsuda and Eiichi Shibusawa on the ¥1,000, ¥5,000 and ¥10,000 bills, respectively. These new bank notes will also be the first in the world to incorporate holographic technology, creating a three-dimensional effect to further deter counterfeiting. Additionally, the numerals on the new notes will be larger to assist visually impaired individuals and those unfamiliar with Japanese currency in distinguishing between denominations. Here’s a closer look at the new designs and the notable figures they feature. Photo: ©Ministry of Finance Japan ¥1,000 note: Shibasaburo Kitasato After receiving his medical degree from the University of Tokyo in 1883, Shibasaburo Kitasato briefly worked as an associate professor at the university before going to Berlin to study with German bacteriologist Robert Koch, who he greatly admired.In 1889, Kitasato became the first person in the world to grow a pure culture of tetanus and went on to work with German physiologist Emil von Behring to

Tokyo, home to the world’s only nautical DisneySea theme park, will soon offer another unique Disney experience. In 2029, a new Disney cruise ship is scheduled to set sail from the city. Modeled after the Disney Wish, the company’s largest cruise ship to date, this new vessel will be one of the biggest cruise ships registered in Japan. Weighing a whopping 140,000 tons, the seafaring resort will feature roughly 1,250 rooms and accommodate up to 4,000 passengers. Photo: Oriental LandA guest room on the existing Disney Wish In the initial stages, the ship will offer shorter voyages of two to four nights, departing and returning to ports in Tokyo. According to The Mainichi, standard packages are expected to range between ¥100,000 and ¥300,000 per person. These packages will include accommodation, meals and entertainment aboard the ship, where guests can enjoy swimming pools, themed play areas and shows starring Mickey Mouse and other popular Disney characters. Photo: Oriental LandA sample image of a Disney cruise waterslide Construction for the yet-unnamed ship is projected to begin next year. Before its maiden voyage in 2029, Disney Cruise Line will launch the Disney Treasure, Disney Adventure and Disney Destiny ships in 2024, 2025 and 2026 respectively. This will make Tokyo's vessel the ninth cruise ship to join Disney's fleet. Photo: Oriental LandA 'Frozen' inspired show on a Disney cruise ship While Disney Cruise Line and joint operator Oriental Land have yet to announc