Harmonica Kitchen

If you ever wanted to be the main character in a Wong Kar-wai film, Harmonica Kitchen gets you close. Located in the cramped, lantern-lit alleyways of Kichijoji’s Harmonica Yokocho, it’s three floors of organised chaos, each with its own mood. The rooftop terrace is the rarest gem here – red lanterns swaying above, smoky air drifting into the night sky, and just enough view of the streets below to keep you feeling like the city is yours. Pair it with a cold pink beer or something fried and salty, and you’ll forget you’re anywhere near a train line.