Having served as Japan academy chair for the World’s 50 Best Restaurants since 2013, food journalist Takanori Nakamura has had a close-up view of the revolution in global fine dining that kicked off with Denmark’s Noma being named the world’s no. 1 restaurant in 2010.
‘This has been a hugely important time in the history of food, he recounts. ‘We’ve seen the France-centred gastronomic orthodoxy crumble, and with it a re-evaluation of local cuisines all over the world. That includes the rise of establishments like Peru’s Central, voted the world’s best restaurant in 2023.’
The movement to spotlight previously overlooked regions and local food cultures has accelerated in recent years. At their meetings, World’s 50 Best chairpersons constantly discuss where new trends will come from, as well as what they’ll be.
In 2022, the organisation launched the MENA 50 Best to highlight exceptional restaurants in the Middle East and North Africa, while the best restaurants in North America will be chosen for the first time in 2025. This brand-new award covers the US, parts of the Caribbean and Canada – and Nakamura is especially excited to highlight the northern nation’s flavours. ‘Canada is fascinating,’ he says. ‘Its culinary culture is still waiting to be discovered in its full depth.’
In the future, Nakamura is hoping for a ‘50 Best’ award for Africa, a region that’s already made its mark on the global list – not least by South Africa’s Wolfgat claiming the top spot in 2019.
The reordering of the culinary world has allowed regional Japanese cuisines to shine, too. Today, an increasing number of international gourmands visiting the country are no longer content with eating their way through Tokyo and Kyoto, setting their sights on rural gems instead.
Japan’s distinctive seasonal ingredients and traditions often shine the brightest outside the big cities. ‘Chefs from around the world are coming to visit the regions, looking to learn about time-honoured techniques like fermentation and preservation,’ says Nakamura.
Eager to make the most of these delicious developments, the national and local governments have renewed their focus on gastronomy tourism. Nakamura expects the trend of seeking out completely new culinary experiences and flavour combinations to accelerate both globally and in Japan.
Meanwhile, Nakamura himself is ever on the hunt for foods he’s never tasted before. ‘I’ve always wanted to try giant salamander,’ he laughs. ‘It used to be a rare delicacy in Japan, beloved by the likes of the potter and calligrapher Rosanjin Kitaoji, who was known as an insatiable gourmand. I won’t get to try it, though – the species is now protected and can’t be eaten. I’ll have to settle for python or armadillo instead.’
While their offerings might not be quite that exotic, the four Japanese destination restaurants selected by Nakamura below all boast world-class gastronomic offerings. ‘They also hold extremely high potential for reaching even greater heights,’ he says, ‘and they’re still flying relatively under the radar’. Book them before the word gets out.
A venerable kappo (‘cut and cook’) establishment founded in 1867, Shintaku showcases the vibrant culinary culture of Murakami, the northernmost part of Niigata prefecture. It serves dishes that recreate Murakami’s ingredients and local cuisine.
‘The food is rooted in Japanese tradition, but the cooking techniques and combinations are incredibly innovative. Getting to taste ingredients available only here is a big part of the restaurant’s charm.’ (Nakamura)
Respiración is a modern Spanish restaurant where the culinary heritage of the Iberian Peninsula meets the traditions of the Japan Sea region. Ingredients such as Kanazawa seafood and heirloom Kaga vegetables form the basis for dishes that express the history and culture of the Ishikawa area.
‘One of Japan’s best examples of a local gastronomic success story, the restaurant skilfully incorporates arts and crafts into the dining experience.’ (Nakamura)
Fine dining in a former elementary school – Auberge ‘Eaufeu’ is a restaurant and accommodation facility that serves as a hub for discerning visitors to Ishikawa.
‘Chef Shota Itoi is still in his early thirties, but already conjures up extremely refined French cuisine that draws on the beautiful landscapes surrounding his restaurant. His collaborations with the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute next door deserve to be highlighted, too.’ (Nakamura)
Chef Goh Fukuyama is a regular on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. At his signature establishment, all guests are invited to share one large table, with the chef and his staff putting the finishing touches on each plate in front of diners’ eyes.
‘It’s hard to resist Chef Fukuyama’s thoughtful hospitality. Dining in Japan doesn’t get any better than this.’ (Nakamura)
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