The Kogashi Festival in Atami
Photo: Atami Tourism Bureau | The Kogashi Festival in Atami
Photo: Atami Tourism Bureau

Don traditional attire and help push giant floats at this summer festival near Tokyo

The Atami Kogashi Festival takes place on July 15 and 16 – here’s how to participate

Genya Aoki
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The Tokyo area has no shortage of traditional summer festivals, but relatively few of them allow visitors to join in the action and be part of the festivities, rather than just watching from the sidelines.

The Kogashi Festival in Atami, less than an hour’s shinkansen ride south of the capital, is one of these accommodating matsuri. Boasting some 1,300 years of history, it’s a local favourite that brings the resort town’s community together every summer.

Held on July 15 and 16, the festival is best known for its massive cart-like floats decorated with intricate wood carvings and lanterns. Each district has its own float, which is traditionally pushed and pulled through the streets by local volunteers.

Unfortunately, with the population of Atami in decline, several neighbourhoods have in recent years had a hard time maintaining their floats and attracting enough participants to push them. That’s where you come in: since 2023, the town and local guesthouse Maruya have joined hands to offer visitors the opportunity to experience the Kogashi Festival like a local.

If you’d like to try pulling on a happi coat, help propel a giant float and celebrate summer with local sake in hand, here’s your chance. Read on for the full itinerary and how to book the experience.

Day 1

1pm: Settle in at Guest House Maruya

The force behind opening up the Kogashi Festival to all comers, this centrally located guesthouse serves as the ideal base for your stay in Atami. Run by Machimori, a company dedicated to enlivening central Atami with all manner of initiatives, Maruya is staffed by local experts eager to let you in on all the town’s best off-the-beaten-track spots.

Besides a well-appointed bar and lounge, the hostel stands out with quirky wallpapers, tatami rooms and other thoughtful design features. Staying at Maruya is the ideal way to get a taste of local life, as guests are encouraged to head out into the town to enjoy meals and communal bathing.

2pm: Festival prep time

After getting your bearings, you’ll be joining a workshop to learn about the background of the Kogashi Festival and how to become part of the Atami community. Guiding you along are two facilitators: Manabu Ohara, whose company runs festival-partipation programmes across 16 localities nationwide, and Yu Toida, a newcomer to the area who now pours his passion into Atami’s festivals. As the workshop focuses mainly on non-verbal elements like gestures, body language and chants, there’s no need to worry even if you don’t speak Japanese.

Over the workshop’s 90-minute run, you’ll not only learn how to handle a float and sing festival songs, but also get a handle on the mindset required to blend in with the locals.

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4pm: Roam the food stalls

Once you’ve started to feel like a member of the community, it’s time to head out and explore the town. On festival days, stalls offering street food and carnival games spring up all over central Atami. This is a great time to fill up on classic festival grub like yakisoba, okonomiyaki, skewered meats and shaved ice.

5.30pm: Handle a massive float

OK, here we go: the Kogashi Festival is finally about to begin. You’re taking part in the float contest, in which more than 20 humongous, ornately crafted specimens from neighbourhoods across town compete for onlookers’ attention.

As a member of the Ginzacho crew, you’ll don your happi coat and help push and pull the district’s float to the judging venue near the Sun Beach bus stop. The energetic chants and showmanship of the float pullers are part of the judging criteria, so this is where you’ll really need to step up your game. The spectacular sight of the floats lined up side by side in the shopping street is one of the festival’s highlights.

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9pm: Raise a glass to the deities

Once the float procession is over, you’ll return to Guest House Maruya for dinner with your fellow participants. Staff will be on hand to look after you, allowing you to eat, drink and chat to your heart’s content.

Part of the festival tradition is to share sacred sake and offerings amongst the participants – a custom that symbolises partaking of the same food as the deities, thereby receiving their blessings, purifying both body and mind, and marking a transition back to everyday life.

You won’t be drinking till morning, though. As many locals need to open their shops early the following day, the post-festival gathering usually concludes after about an hour or two – giving you the choice of crashing in your room or keeping the party going elsewhere.

Day 2

12noon: Catch a wet spectacle

The second day of the Kogashi Festival is a more subdued affair than the first, but there is one lively part of the programme you won’t want to miss on the 16th.

At noon, the Hamakudari ceremony sees men aged 42 – traditionally considered an unlucky year – charge into the sea while chanting intensively.

This rite of passage is preceded by a mikoshi procession, in which the same men haul a portable shrine through the town to pray for good health and Atami’s prosperity. 

When they reach the shore, they carry the shrine with them into the water while a participant dressed up as a long-nosed tengu goblin throws roasted barley high into the air. Onlookers compete for the right to be sprinkled with the stuff, which is believed to bring protection from illness.

How to book

To book a stay at Maruya and take part in the festival, visit the website. Rates start from ¥12,500 for a single room and include the festival participation fee, drinks and a bento for dinner on the 15th.

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