Tokyo meets the world: Micronesia

Right, I’ve been working in Japan in various roles for well over three decades, including 13 years as ambassador, and also went to college here before entering the Foreign Service. When I arrived, I knew nothing about Japan – I was expecting to see samurai walking on the streets with swords, but when I landed in Tokyo everyone was wearing a suit and tie. This image might have been a result of watching samurai movies, which were popular in my country then. That obviously changed my outlook on things.

The culture never really took me by surprise, since Japan is in many ways similar to Micronesia. In both cultures we respect our elders and listen when they talk to you, and we’re modest. The food, on the other hand, did. When I had miso soup for the first time, I was like “You want me to drink this?” The tofu in the soup looked like soap to me [laughs].

There have been so many changes in society [over the past 40 years]; when I arrived the economy was moving up, then the bubble economy burst and things went downhill, but Japan recovered quickly. I think that was because of the solidarity and unity among the people. When Japan faces a crisis, the people really pull together, which is inspiring to see. What hasn’t changed is that the people are peaceful and friendly. I always feel welcome here, and I’ve felt at home in Tokyo since I first moved here.

I like Tokyo, it’s so full of excitement. In one direction you have the modern, while in the other you have the traditional city. These two sides blend together and are what make the city so comfortable. I often walk up the Sumida River to Asakusa; along the way you see modern buildings, but when you reach Asakusa you get the temples and the shitamachi vibe.

I enjoy down-to-earth places, and my favourite is the Gado-shita [alleyways under the railway tracks] in Yurakucho. That’s because there you see the real life [of Tokyoites]: you get to meet strangers and become friends with them. You sit down, have your drink and bite on some yakitori, and then just strike up conversation. I love those places. The people you meet, and the smell on your clothes when you’re done – it’s just wonderful.

Unfortunately there aren’t any restaurants serving Micronesian cuisine right now, but promoting our food culture is one of [the embassy’s] priorities. We are getting ready to open a building of our own in Meguro in a year or so, where we’ll provide opportunities for people to enjoy our cuisine and culture. There are two Micronesian chefs working in Tokyo, whom we hope to invite [to the new building] once that’s possible again.

My image of the Olympics and Paralympics used to involve a great inflow of people from all over the world and a festive mood, but unfortunately with the pandemic the Games had to be postponed and then held without spectators. That could have been a letdown, but when I spoke to the three Micronesian athletes who participated in Tokyo 2020, they told me they were so proud to be Tokyo Olympians and to have represented their country, and that [the experience] will remain in their hearts forever, despite all the restrictions.

The Games came through in three important ways: athletes were able to strive for their personal best, there was acceptance of one other – unity in diversity – and a legacy was shaped that can be passed on to the future. Having been successful, the Tokyo Games provided a great example for the rest of the world with regard to organising an event like this under difficult circumstances.

Well, I’m of Japanese descent, so the bond [between the two countries] is personal for me. Japan has deep historical ties with the Pacific region, from fishing to colonial rule. In colonial times Japan provided Micronesians with basic education, and the linguistic connection remains, as you mention. Japan’s current engagement with the region, especially through the PALM (Pacific Islands Leaders Meeting) process, is peaceful, beneficial to both parties, and sets a good example for other countries. Lastly, our blood relations are very important; three of Micronesia’s four ambassadors to Japan have been of Japanese descent.

Environmental issues are at the top of the agenda for us and all the other Pacific island nations, especially because of the way rising sea levels impact our human and food security. The Pacific islands’ leaders recently endorsed a document labelled Declaration on Preserving Maritime Zones in the Face of Climate Change-related to Sea Level-Rise, which aims to preserve the territorial and geographical integrity of the island states in the face of  rising sea levels. In terms of coping with climate change, we work together with our neighbours to promote the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions, but no matter how hard we work, nothing will change unless the major world players move.

We hope that Japan and our development partners can use their influence in various global bodies to help our voice be heard. Preserving the oceans also ties in with protecting the marine stocks we live on. We depend on the ocean for our life, and we look to Japan and our developed partners to help us in this regard. Japan and Micronesia are connected by the ocean and as Pacific countries share the same concerns, including climate change and disaster mitigation.

I do, and we hope that more countries will come to realise the impact that plastic waste has on the oceans. A law that prohibits the import of plastic bags and other disposable plastic items came into force [in Micronesia] almost two years ago. Banning plastics created some reservations within our business sector, but it was a necessary move. I know that Japan has also taken steps in this regard – some of them small things like Starbucks switching to paper straws, but those little things make a big difference in the end.

The pollution issue isn’t all on the developed countries. I know we have had to get young people to understand that throwing thrash into the ocean or anywhere will have a negative impact on the environment. In our culture, we [traditionally] made things out of leaves and threw them back into nature when we were done with them. A lack of education meant that this practice was continued even after plastics were adopted. Now that’s been addressed, and our children are educated to separate and minimize waste from an early age. Part of that is thanks to technical cooperation provided by Japan, including municipalities such as the city of Hachioji in Tokyo, which helped us develop a system for separating waste. I hope Japan will continue to support initiatives to help the [Pacific] region cope with these issues. Interview by Masashi Takahashi