Day one
Situated within the protected Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park and flanked by mangroves, coral and sand, Gaya Island Resort feels like a hideout from the modern world and is the perfect place to start your Bornean break. The hotel is just a 20-minute speed boat ride from Kota Kinabalu, but spread up a steep hill winding itself up into the jungle, it feels a world away from that port town. Nature never feels far away: giant monitor lizards can be seen trekking along the beach and a troop of mischievous macaques have been known to raid the minibars of anyone who leaves their door unlocked. This all adds to the adventurous nature of the place, but there’s plenty of comfort to go with the creatures, with four restaurants, a cosy treehouse library, a spa and a lap pool.
Ease yourself into island life with a snorkel on the house reef situated near the jetty. With luck you’ll spot sea snakes and bright clownfish zig-zagging through the garden of coral. Back on dry land you can learn about the culture of Malaysian Borneo. There are over 30 distinct ethnic groups in Sabah - the district of Borneo that includes Gaya Island - and the resort has a long history of working with locals to share the benefits of tourism while also offering guests an insight into their unique cultures and histories. Gaya’s two largest groups are the Rungus and the Kadazandusun, and members lead handicraft sessions in brightly-hued beadwork from the former group and plant weaving from the latter. Both are free to join and thoroughly recommended.
End your first day in Borneo at the sustainably-minded rooftop restaurant Fisherman’s Cove, dining on locally caught fish and drinking in the views across the bay and Mount Kinabalu beyond. Chef Wang’s sambal – a fiery local chilli sauce – is exceptional and if you ask nicely she’ll even share the recipe with you.
