Who can resist an email that says, "It only happens once a year" and invites you to come to Yosemite to see the natural phenomenon known as the Firefall? Not us, especially since it's something we've wanted to do for a while! We promptly booked a trip to Yosemite to try to catch this wily, not-guaranteed beautiful sight.
The Firefall is a trick of the light where the setting sun backlights a waterfall coming off the eastern face of the monumental stone monolith El Capitan, such that it looks like it's on fire (see photo above, taken earlier this month). The reason it's not guaranteed is that the water needs to be falling, the sky must be clear, the sun must be in the right position to illuminate the falls, and you have to be looking; it only lasts a few minutes. And while we didn't get to see the full effect on this trip, the intense pink lighting on the granite face was still thrilling and brought a whoop of excitement from those gathered to watch, and a friend later commented on the photo, "Wait, this is when you 'missed' it? It's gorgeous! I would think this was the main event." So there are a few things to share if, you, too want to head to Yosemite to see this once-a-year sight. The first thing is that it only happens mid-to-late February, so jump on it if you want to go this year!
Where's the best place to see the Firefall in Yosemite?
Tony McDaniel, director of communications for the Yosemite Mariposa County Tourism Bureau, says that the El Capitan picnic area provides the best viewing. There are lots of logs there for seating plus a scattering of picnic tables, and perhaps best of all, the free park shuttle stops there. A word of warning: the picnic area's signage is, shall we say, subtle, so we were part of multiple groups of people that actually walked past it and had to double back. But there are plenty of other places to get a great view, and you'll see photographers setting up tripods all along Northside Drive.
What's the best place to park?
McDaniel suggests the parking lot for the Yosemite Valley Lodge, which offers plenty of spaces and is then a roughly 1.5-mile walk to the El Capitan picnic area. Be aware that you'll be returning to your car in the dark. One lane of Northside Drive is blocked off for pedestrians with traffic cones for this event. We recommend walking to the viewing spot and then taking the shuttle back to your car - it's a festive shuttle ride afterward.
When is the best time to see the Firefall in Yosemite?
This is an important one because there can be crowds, especially on weekends, when you are required to have a park reservation in an effort to control the number of people in the park (no need for a reservation on weekdays at this time, but please check the National Park Service website before coming. The website is also a must for checking storm conditions and whether tire chains are required). We arrived on a Thursday and were told to park at Yosemite Valley Lodge no later than 2pm, but given that sunset that night was 5:45pm, that was a lot of time to kill.
How to kill time while you wait for the Firefall?
You can walk to Yosemite Falls, gushing this time of year. Or just proceed to the picnic area and...have a picnic. Dress warmly; there was snow on the ground when we were there. It's embarrassing to admit this, but there is wifi access at Base Camp Eatery, which is at the Yosemite Valley Lodge, so we checked email and decompressed before heading over to El Cap. Nothing like being in one of the most striking places on earth and being distracted by your phone.
Where do you actually look for the Firefall on the rock?
Horsetail Fall is the waterfall that flows over El Cap's eastern edge, so look for a steam of water more towards the right-hand "bump." Whereas Yosemite Falls is roaring, Horsetail Fall may only be a trickle that can be hard to see. Binoculars are a good idea just to get your bearings.
And when do you look?
Just after the sun sets, wait for the potential stream of light just like the Map of Tanis scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark. And keep waiting. Don't give up! When we were there, some of our party concluded that the Firewall wasn't happening and had literally turned their back on the rock to complain (okay, it was me). It was at that point that the rosy, ethereal light show took place and lasted about three minutes. It was utterly beautiful, and while it wasn't the traditional, hoped-for steam of fiery light, it was still awe-inspiring.
Didn't people used to literally throw fire off the rock wall?
Yes, the historical Firefall used to happen at Glacier Point, where a bonfire's embers would be pushed over the edge, visible from Curry Village below. It took place 1872-1968 (with several years-long pauses) until a National Park Service director put his foot down over the unnatural and unsafe spectacle. In 1973, photographer Galen Rowell first photographed the natural Firefall that we now flock to Yosemite to see.
Where is a good place to stay to see the Firefall in Yosemite?
Definitely try to book space at Yosemite Valley Lodge, but if that's not possible, the Yosemite View Lodge is just a 20-minute drive away in El Portal, just outside the park gates. It sits on the edge of the Merced River and is a great choice with several year-round outdoor hot tubs with incredible vistas.