Junior year of college, I was invited by my then-best friend to spend a few weeks on the beach in Italy with her family. It was a brief but transformative experience, introducing me to the carefree feeling everyone on Instagram is trying to capture and sell. Long days spent mostly on the water, simple meals shared in big groups, casual conversations with strangers that somehow spark lifelong friendships—and so much wine. The way Europeans squeeze every last drop out of summer, doing everything from water aerobics to throwing impromptu beach parties and sitting down for those gloriously long, boozy lunches. The kind of stuff you just can’t slap a filter over.
Europe wasn’t in the cards this summer, but I found that fleeting, anything-is-possible summer feeling at Club Med Michès Playa Esmeralda in the Dominican Republic. Yes, that Club Med—the one that peaked in the ’80s and ’90s and seemed to disappear like tanning beds and dial-up internet. Turns out, the 75-year-old, French-born brand is alive, well and still opening resorts. This one opened in 2019 on a secluded stretch of Playa Esmeralda in the Dominican Republic. Billing itself as a luxury eco-resort, Michès is part of Club Med’s five-star Exclusive Collection. Remote, yes—but with every modern amenity and convenience, the 93-acre beachfront oasis packs it in.
For those unfamiliar, Club Med is an all-inclusive resort: one price covers your stay, meals and activities. But that barely scratches the surface of what turned out to be an expansive, rejuvenating and seriously fun vacation for me and my family. Like those weeks in Italy and the summers that followed, I made friends, sat down for proper lunches of freshly prepared meals, tried new things—and had champagne at every meal.
Every morning began with a group jog around the property, followed by breakfast at Cayuco, the resort’s main restaurant. Less buffet, more gourmet food court, the spread ranged from made-to-order eggs to a cornucopia of tropical fruit to a rotating daily station (my favorite) serving Mexican chilaquiles, French crepes, and other hangover-curing essentials. Pressed juices and enough caffeine options to rival a Starbucks rounded it out.
Then it was off to the beach. I’ve been on trips where getting a lounger meant waking up at dawn or bribing someone to hold one. Not here. At Michès, loungers are plentiful because that’s literally the point of a beach vacation. I didn’t line up for anything, didn’t have to make a single reservation. I just walked up to the sports shack, grabbed a paddle and life vest, and hit the water. Fresh coconut water? Available straight from the source, just add your paper straw. It wasn’t about entitlement—I’m not above waiting for a piña colada—but about a certain level of ease. And I found that here.
Club Med calls its staff G.O.s—Gracious Organizers—many of whom are young, seasonal workers from French-speaking countries. They wear a lot of hats, and they elevate the whole experience. One moment I’m dropping my toddler off at kids’ club with an adorable young French girl; the next, her counselor is dressed as the Statue of Liberty at Cayuco for the Fourth of July. My jogging buddy? He also teaches water aerobics and performs in acrobatic shows. The G.O. who checked me in? She’s front and center during Crazy Signs, the daily choreographed dance party that’s a Club Med signature.
Club Med felt more like summer camp led by adults who are professionally fun. The pop-up dance parties reminded me of melon time at One Fire Beach Club on the Amalfi Coast. One moment you’re sipping an Aperol Spritz, the next a staffer is smashing open a watermelon and turning the beach into a rave. Two parties, same vibe.
I spent hours lounging with a book, but when that got old, there was plenty to do. I tried archery for the first time, paddleboarded after lunch and convinced my husband to do yoga in the jungle. His first-ever class was led by an instructor trained under Jonah Kest, a globally known yoga ambassador. I learned that after the fact, but it tracked. Plus, the palapa had a Zen, treehouse feel that instantly set the tone.
I never thought “activities” would be my thing on a beach vacation since I usually pack as many books as I do clothes. But here we are. There’s something to be said about relinquishing control and knowing you’ll be taken care of. Club Med’s slogan is “L’Esprit Libre,” or “the free spirit,” which, to me, meant trying something new and embracing simple moments.
It may not have been my dream European beach club, but geography aside, it satisfied that same craving for connection, relaxation and joie de vivre—and I didn’t even need to cross the Atlantic.