Sam's Grill & Seafood Restaurant

This old-school San Francisco institution is, they say, the fifth oldest restaurant in the U.S. (est. 1887 and in its present location since 1946, according to the E Clampus Vitus historic plaque on the pavement outside). The menu bears that out with charming items you won’t find elsewhere, like Celery Victor and Clams Casino. We had the former and it was amazing: celery poached in olive oil, soft and without strings, covered with tender baby shrimp (or you could choose anchovies), cherry tomatoes and a wonderful vinaigrette. But the standouts are the nine types of very fresh fish straight out of the bay, prepared one of four ways: mesquite grilled with drawn butter, doré (a French pan-seared method) with caper butter, pan-fried with lemon butter or deep-fried with tartar sauce.

The main dining room is filled with throwback photos, but if you book a private booth, you’ll go instead to a hallway filled with curtained-off spaces. They’re not fancy; the walls are barebones wood, but the thrill of privacy is pretty fun. Inside, you can ring a bell for service. Our friendly server pulled me away to show me the mechanism, counting down so my husband, in earshot, would ring it; it pops up with the booth number, reminiscent of the bell system on Downton Abbey.

Owner Peter Quartaroli stopped by to talk with us. A San Francisco native, he started working in restaurants from the time he was 10 years old. He landed at Sam’s Grill in 1994, and when he heard it was closing, he pulled together a group of investors to buy it. The restaurant’s vibe includes a vibe of tight-knit community, both among waitstaff and patrons — cracking wise is in full effect here.

Sam’s Patio fronts on Belden Place, the alley which in the past has hosted an annual Bastille Day celebration, and you can continue the fun at the next-door Sam’s Tavern, which remains open on the weekends.

The vibe: Spiffy yet playful old-school joint; the waiters wear suits, but you don’t have to.

The food: The freshest seafood and steaks.

The drink: Martinis, Manhattans and a full bar.

Time Out tip: Build room in your weekday schedule; Sam’s Grill is closed on the weekends.