Visit this historic city for riverside walks, cosy pubs and seriously good food
Winchester is one of those cities that feels a bit like stepping back in time. Once the capital of England, it’s kept its traditional charm, even with all the trendy spots that have popped up there over the years. And that’s what makes it such a great place for a city break; beautiful architecture and winding lanes lead into streets lined with hip bakeries.
Part of its popularity is down to the city only being an hour’s train from London, and a short drive from the New Forest and the south coast, so you can head up for a full weekend, or just a perfect day out. We’ve carved out the perfect itinerary for Winchester, from river walks to brunch spots and indie shops to sunny beer gardens (and you can take it as slow as you like). Here are the best things to do in Winchester right now.
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Take a tour of the enormous gothic cathedral. It has a fascinating story to tell – a diver spent five years in the mud underneath it fixing the foundations. Its history stretches back to AD 642, so the building has bags of surprises, old and new, including an Antony Gormley statue in the crypt.
Then make a beeline for The Great Hall, which displays the round table of Arthurian legend. It's actually a recreation commissioned by Henry VIII, but is still hugely impressive.
Wander along the River Itchen and within seconds you’ll be in lush countryside. Look out for wildlife including yellow wagtails along the riverbanks. The views on the two-mile loop to the Hospital of St Cross, up St Catherine’s Hill and through the Water Meadows are as Arcadian as they come. Breathe in that fresh rural air and feel yourself relax into your trip.
After your wholesome walk head to Josie’s for spectacular pancakes or a great veggie breakfast. If the queue is too long and your hunger too great, try Piecaramba! for hearty pies and vintage comics. Still peckish? Buy a giant doughnut from Hoxton Bakehouse.
Take your pick from the two best traditional boozers in town: The Black Boy or The Wykeham Arms, both of which are stuffed to the rafters with bizarre knick-knacks and taxidermy. Next, try the best craft beer joint in town: Overdraft Craft Ale Bar. If a cocktail is more your thing, head to Cabinet Rooms or Incognito. For ace wine from self-serve dispensers, visit The Black Bottle.
Book a table at Chesil Rectory, Winchester’s Michelin-listed restaurant. It has a relaxed vibe and seasonal dishes with great wine pairings to go alongside. After something a bit less pricey? Feast on pizza at Pi on Stockbridge Road.
Explore Winchester’s winding side streets and the amazing
independent shops that fill them. Visit Sass & Edge, The Consortium and lastly P&G Wells, a lovely, award-winning independent bookshop where it is rumoured author Jane Austen (who died in Winchester) had an account.
If the view from your bedroom window is a bus stop or a bin
store, your urban mind might very well be blown by the vistas from the cabins deep in Hampshire’s Blackwood Forest. The woodland near Winchester is home to 60 lodges, each with a huge picture window, framing nothing but towering beech trees. At the centre sits the Forest Retreat, a small shop, café and bar. Listen to the calming rustle of leaves and keep an eye out for a different kind of night-time wildlife.
From £395 for night.
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