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[title]What's the deal with Kypseli?
Here at Time Out, we really love cool neighbourhoods. We love them so much, in fact, we publish a big old list of the coolest neighbourhoods in the whole world, every single year. And while these change every year (look out for our 2023 edition), one thing will never change – and that's Kypseli, which is an incredibly cool neighbourhood all of the time, whether it's on the list or not.
When you walk through the streets of Kypseli, the first thing you’ll notice is the remarkable mix of architectural styles, from crumbling neoclassical mansions to striking Bauhaus designs with rounded balconies and graphic front doors. And pretty soon, you’ll notice that the neighbourhood’s residents match this eclecticism, too. A mixture of African and Middle Eastern migrant communities have settled in Kypseli over the past two decades, transforming one of Athens’s oldest neighbourhoods into its only truly multicultural one.
The city’s artistic community have also made it their home, attracted by its low rents and proximity to the centre. The city’s first-ever artist residency, Snehta, was founded here, and the rotating mixture of international artists put on regular exhibitions in its space at I Drossopoulou 47. The surrounding streets are a mixture of old-world Greek life and modern multiculturalism. Old men sit playing dominoes outside traditional ouzeries, and Ethiopian restaurants, Kurdish kebab houses and shisha bars can all be found nearby.
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If you only do one thing…
Do not miss a Sunday stroll down Fokionos Negri Boulevard. The cafes and tavernas that line either side give a view of both new and old Greece, and every Sunday, the 1930s-built municipal market opens for pop-up shops, events and an organic food market.
Get cultured
British printmaker Eleanor Lines fell in love with Kypseli after completing the Snehta residency in 2016, and her work is inspired by the architectural shapes of the neighbourhood. Today she runs Kypseli Print Studio, housed in a split-level mid-war building off Fokionoa Negri, where she hosts regular printing workshops, residencies and one-off events.
Stay up late
How does the oldest bar in Athens sound? Pretty darn good, that's how. Au Revoir has been a nightlife staple in these parts for a long ol' while, and the walls are covered with pictures that reveal something new every time. If it's good enough for Frank Sinatra, it's good enough for us.
Eat here
For a low-key tavern lunch, head to Οι Νοστιμιές της Μαίρης (Maria’s Delights) in leafy Platia Agios Georgiou and tuck into hearty plates of Greek-style stewed vegetables, salads, and meatballs in red sauce.
Ethiopian restaurant Lalibela is famous for its buffet events, which take place on the first Saturday of every month. The restaurant features unlimited dishes for just €12 per person and is accompanied by traditional music and dancing.
For a more upmarket take on traditional Greek cuisine, check out The Bakalogatos. The small plates menu focuses on regional produce, and you’ll find speciality cheeses and meats from all over the country. The fried courgette is also said to be the best in Athens.
Drink here
Hip hangout βιλατζ (Village) is a cool café during the day, but transforms into a buzzy bar as the sun dips. Grab one of the tables outside and participate in the great Greek sport of people watching as the city’s residents pass through the platia.
And if you don't want the night to end, head to Orfeas, near Kypseli Market. It's open until 2am, and a ton of local artists play there often (sometimes there is a small door fee, but it's worth it).
How to get to Kypseli
Buses 5, 11, 2 and 4 go from Syntagma Square in the city centre to Fokionos Negri, or you can take a taxi in around 15 to 20 minutes.
What else is nearby?
The so-called anarchist neighbourhood of Exarchia, famed for its street art, sits just to the south. The two areas are separated by Pedion Areos, one of central Athens’s few parks, definitely worth a daytime wander.