Table Mountain Dams
Photograph: Richard Holmes
Photograph: Richard Holmes

The (thirsty) story behind the Table Mountain dams

Cape Town worrying about water is nothing new. Discover the century-old shortage that sparked the building of dams on Table Mountain.

Richard Holmes
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It’s April, and all eyes are on the dams. City managers are warning residents of possible water shortages in the summer ahead and putting the metro on ‘Early Drought Caution’. This week, the city’s main water storage dams are just 45 percent full, about 20 percent lower than at this time last year, and the 2017 drought and threat of ‘Day Zero’ still looms large in the minds of locals.

But, in fact, this is all nothing new.

Cape Town: always a thirsty city

Wind the clock back 150 years, and the fast-growing city of Cape Town was battling the same problem: a lack of fresh water to fill the taps of the expanding suburbs below. Locals had long relied on the spring water and streams that flow from the sandstone of Table Mountain – the Khoisan named this place Camissa, for its ‘sweet water’ – but by the late-1800s those streams were no longer enough. As demand rose and summer streams dried up, engineers were forced to think bigger. And higher.

Their solution was a bold one: build reservoirs on top of Table Mountain.

First came the Woodhead Tunnel, built between 1888 and 1891, which diverted water from the Disa Stream – which flows into Hout Bay – towards the city centre. However, streams ebb and flow with the rains. Dams are more reliable. In 1890, Scottish engineer Thomas Stewart was brought in to help turn that idea into stone and mortar.

He built cableways up Kasteelspoort, and laid rail tracks for steam engines on the mountain top. Sandstone was plentiful, but it all had to be cut by hand and hauled into place.

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Over the next 20 years, five dams would be built on top of Table Mountain, and until 1921 nearly every drop of drinking water in the city flowed down from the mountaintop. Today, that’s changed: Cape Town uses around 950-million litres of water per day, meaning residents would drink the mountain dams dry in less than three days.

They’re a curious corner of Cape history. Here’s the history behind the five dams that still help, just a little, to keep Day Zero at bay.

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Born and raised in the city, Richard Holmes is a travel writer based in Cape Town. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines

Discover the dams of Table Mountain

Woodhead Dam

Woodhead Dam was built between 1893 and 1897 and was the first large dam to be built on Table Mountain. Designed to store water from the Disa catchment for supply to central Cape Town, it remains the largest of the five Table Mountain dams, and can hold 954 million litres of water. The final stone was lowered into place on 1 May 1897, in a formal ceremony attended by Cape Town mayor Sir John Woodhead. The dam wall measures 248 metres long and 38 metres high, and was built from sandstone quarried on the mountain. Many of the blocks weighed around two tons and were moved into place by steam-driven crane, the remnants of which can still be seen in the Waterworks Museum at the northern edge of the Hely-Hutchinson Reservoir.

To get men and materials onto the summit, engineer Thomas Stewart constructed a 665-metre aerial cableway from Victoria Road above Camps Bay to the top of Kasteelspoort. When completed, Woodhead was the first large masonry dam built in South Africa, and in 2008 it was named an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark by the American Society of Civil Engineers.

Hely-Hutchinson Reservoir

City planners knew that Woodhead wouldn’t solve the problem, and work soon began on the Hely-Hutchinson Reservoir. Completed in 1904, it was built just above Woodhead, in the same catchment system. Named after former Cape Governor Sir Walter Hely-Hutchinson, the reservoir holds 925 megalitres, making it the second-largest of the five dams on the mountain. The sandy beaches at the eastern edge of the reservoir make it a popular spot for hikers to swim (even though this is officially prohibited by South African National Parks).

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De Villiers Dam

If you walk the jeep track from Constantia Nek to the Back Table, you’ll pass three smaller dams, all of which store water for the southern suburbs of Cape Town. The first you’ll come across is De Villiers Dam, completed in 1910 as the last of the five Table Mountain dams to be built. Named after Lord John Henry de Villiers, Chief Justice of the Cape Colony, and later the first Chief Justice of South Africa, its 243 megalitres make it the largest of the three southern dams.

Alexandra Dam

Next up is the Alexandra Dam, which also formed part of the Wynberg supply scheme to keep the suburbs from going thirsty. Built to store runoff from the Back Table, it holds 126 megalitres, making it the smallest of the five Table Mountain dams. Who was Alexandra, you might be asking? We’re not entirely sure. It could have been for the second name (Alexandrina) of Queen Victoria, or Queen Alexandra, who was the wife of King Edward VII, and daughter-in-law of Queen Victoria. We’ll keep digging!

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Victoria Dam

The last dam on this corner of the mountain also stored water off the eastern slopes to feed the southern suburbs. It’s named – you guessed it – for Queen Victoria, who was on the English throne when the dam was built in 1895. Holding just 128 megalitres, Cape Town could drink it dry in three hours.

Waterworks Museum

On the northern end of the Hely-Hutchinson Reservoir wall, the Waterworks Museum tells the story of building the mountaintop dams. Indoors, you’ll find a small display of faded photographs, typewritten notes and press clippings, while outside, the massive cogs and steam-driven crane slowly rust away. Opening hours are hard to find, but contact SANParks if you really want to visit.

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Stay the night: Overseers Cottage

You can turn a day of exploring the mountaintop into an overnight adventure by booking the Overseers’ Cottage, which is rented out by SA National Parks. The cottage sleeps up to 16 hikers in reasonable comfort, but the real drawcard is the location on the eastern edge of the mountain, with spectacular city views below. It gets booked well in advance, so start planning.

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