May the forts be with you

Fun fact: in 1878, Cascais became the first town in Portugal to experiment with public electric lighting – right here in the Citadel, once the Portuguese royal family’s summer residence and now serving that role for the President of the Republic. More than just a set of old walls, it feels like a village within the village. Step inside to find the Nossa Senhora da Vitória Chapel, where 17th-century tile panels bring biblical scenes to life, wander around its terraces, explore the museum, check out contemporary art and stop at Santini Corner, right outside the walls, for ice cream (and cocktails!) with a view over the Atlantic. Today, the complex is home to a unique art district, with galleries, studios, bookshops and rotating exhibitions spread across the fortress and even through the Pestana hotel’s corridors. This is where history meets culture and leisure, right at the town centre – ideal for discovering Cascais at an easy pace.

Built in 1590 by order of King Philip II of Spain, the fort was part of a defensive line created after Lisbon’s vulnerability was laid bare by invasions and pirate threats – a reminder that this peaceful spot was once on the frontline of history. Also known as Forte Velho (“Old Fort”, said with affection), it holds a darker chapter of Portuguese history: this was the summer residence of dictator António de Oliveira Salazar and, in 1968, the place where he reportedly fell from his chair – an accident often linked to his death two years later. Today, a stroll along its terraces lets you spot old artillery pieces and imagine cinematic scenes from soldiers’ daily lives. Add a sea view that’s truly something else, and you’ve got a place that blends history, architecture and prime Instagram potential. Not all fortresses get to moonlight as dancefloors like something straight out of the movies. But, this past summer, this one had music echoing off its old walls and hosted sunset parties where electronic beats met the Atlantic, with names like Jungle, RYX and Moullinex playing.

Built in the 17th century to keep an eye on incoming landings, this fort comes with old cannons, sturdy walls and a front-row view of Guincho beach. You’ll feel the Atlantic wind full-on and quickly understand Cascais’ strategic importance. Small but full of character, it’s perfect for imagining life as a lookout or spotting ships on the horizon. Currently closed off to the public, it’s a good stop for those brave enough to take on the Guincho trail by foot.

Part fortress, part lighthouse, this spot is now home to a small museum dedicated to Portuguese lighthouses (and yes, there’s more to them than you might think). From the top, the view stretches over the marina and along the coastline – a great excuse for a scenic pause between walks. Take a full 360 from the top then head down to Lusophonica for a drink with a view. The open terrace is perfect for kids who still have energy to burn.

Small, discreet and right by Poça beach, this fort is a hidden gem. Partially in ruins, it still hints at its former grandeur as part of the region’s defensive system. The atmosphere is calm and almost secret, offering a quieter, less obvious side of Cascais. Just nearby, Snack Bar Surpresa is all about fresh fish, frosty beers and a generous terrace – a brilliant pick when the sun’s out. Just be ready to wait as tables don’t come easily.

Near Cabo Raso lighthouse, this compact fort shows the close link between coastal defence and the (very, very beautiful) Atlantic landscape. Inside, the lighthouse – painted a bold red that immediately stands out – rises 13 metres, with its light sitting 23 metres above sea level. The surviving walls and lighthouse add a splash of colour to the dark rocks below. Nowadays, it functions as the lighthouse keeper’s home, providing living quarters for those who work at the navigation support station.

Only traces of the walls remain, but this 17th-century fort still tells stories of coastal defence. Sit near the ruins, stare out at the sea and imagine soldiers scanning the horizon for ships. It’s a quick stop that easily turns into a surprisingly immersive moment with the past – and one of the best spots in town to watch Ironman swimmers, sailing races and open-water competitions unfold in the bay. Right beside it rises the Palacete Seixas, a fairytale, castle-like mansion built in 1916 over the fort’s remaining walls, its turrets and stone façade now part of Cascais’ most iconic seafront views. After all that sea air, follow the curve of the bay to Corleone for a taste of its fresh pasta made daily, classic recipes and a terrace made for long lunches with a view.

Built between 1642 and 1646 to protect strategic beaches (and, especially in summer, we’re very grateful for that), this fort blends history with landscape. Only parts of the walls and grounds survive, but a walk around the site is enough to imagine just how important it once was. Set on a rocky outcrop at the eastern edge of the bay, it once crossed fire with the Citadel to block enemy boats – today, all that remains is a crenellated parapet below the Palmela Palace, one of Cascais’ most iconic summer homes. It sits between Duquesa Beach – a favourite for stand-up paddleboarding – and the Alberto Romano ocean pool, so a summer visit easily pairs history with refreshing dips in the Atlantic. Keep walking along the seafront and stop at EMMA for a bite: right on the edge of Conceição Beach, it’s a must for fresh flavours, a laid-back vibe and a view that’s hard to beat.

Small but full of personality, Forte da Cruz was part of the 17th-century coastal defence line, with cannons positioned to control any unwelcome arrivals. Today, the remains of the walls and gates show how the artillery was organised. Perched above Tamariz Beach with the Atlantic stretching to the horizon. It’s now one of Cascais’ most coveted wedding spots, perfect for anyone dreaming of saying “I do” with a sea breeze in their hair and a sunset straight out of a movie.