With over 20 years of experience in the restaurant industry, Colombian chef Mauricio Roesel left South America long ago to pursue his career in Europe. After a stint in London, he decided to make Portugal his home. Though he always dreamed of becoming an entrepreneur, fate led him to Alma — the two-Michelin-starred restaurant by chef Henrique Sá Pessoa — where he worked as a pastry chef.
"But I reached a point where there was no ceiling left for me to break through. Staying at Alma for another five or ten years just wasn’t sustainable," Mauricio Roesel tells Time Out. So, on 17th of July last year, he took the leap and opened Masa Bakery in Malveira da Serra.
Living in Cascais with his wife, Mauricio wanted to set up his business in the area. They eventually found the perfect spot in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, in a village where traditional rural life intertwines with the international cosmopolitan vibe of Cascais and Sintra.
Mauricio describes Masa as a "micro bakery." It all started, he explains, with croissants — both sweet and savoury. You’ll find them in their classic form, as well as with ham and cheese, chocolate, almond, or even Frankfurt sausages, among other options. Every now and then, he experiments with seasonal variations, like a fig and mascarpone croissant in the summer or a walnut and coffee version for winter. He’s also tried making the ever-popular cruffins — a cross between a croissant and a muffin. They were a hit.
Every day, slow-fermented, 100% natural bread comes fresh out of the oven at Masa Bakery. But this is a small-batch, artisanal operation, where the selection changes daily. The week we visited the cosy bakery, there were baguettes, 100% rye bread, chorizo bread, and seeded loaves on offer.
"There’s no fixed menu set in stone," Mauricio explains of the ever-evolving concept, which has been drawing customers from all over Cascais. Looking ahead, he plans to expand into specialty coffee (and its many variations) as well as new pastry creations, like éclairs. "I love constantly learning and exploring new things," he says.
The discreet space, with just a counter and a small corridor, once housed another croissant shop — Croissants da Serra, by sheer coincidence. If you want to taste Masa Bakery’s specialties, you can enjoy them on the terrace, which seats around 15 people, or take them to one of Malveira da Serra’s many scenic spots with breathtaking views over the Guincho coastline.
Rua de Cascais, 938B, Malveira da Serra (Alcabideche). Wed-Fri 09.00-17.00; Sat-Sun 09.00-14.00