Pastoral, the local cheese shop, now has a wine bar. A short list of wines is available by the bottle, glass and half glass, which makes it easy to try a variety. The wine list regularly changes, but the Jochen Beurer riesling was wonderfully dry and stony, while the Barboursville chardonnay was a crisp and clean way to start the evening. Appellation serves composed cheese plates that focus on themes, like New Classics, with a funky camembert from Minnesota and salty Jasper Hill Clothbound Cheddar. Cheese is present in most of the bar snacks and larger plates, including toast piled with tomato-leek relish, an anchovy and hard podda cheese. Housemade charcuterie includes country pate with extra depth from bacon and a showstopping rabbit rillette, capped with whipped mustard butter.
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