It’s been said time and again (and not just by Time Out) that one of one of the advantages of Zagreb over other cities is the sheer abundance and variety of fresh, local foodstuffs. Zagreb’s shopping culture is still rooted in the city’s many markets, of which Dolac, directly above the main square, is the most celebrated. Seasonal fruit and veg is only part of the story: each market has a fish pavilion supplied by regular deliveries from the Adriatic. Delve into the indoor market halls below Dolac market to find all manner of deli delights, including Istrian hams, Adriatic anchovies and Slavonian salamis.
This traditional epicurean scene has been joined in recent years by a plethora of health- and ecology-conscious food stores selling organic vegetables, pure fruit juices, gluten-free bread and a whole lot more besides. Further proof that there’s an environmentally friendly foodie revolution going on is provided by Mali plac na tavanu (‘The Little Market in the Attic’), which takes place in a residential attic a short walk from the centre every Saturday (in Spring and Summer the market goes open-air at Cafe U Dvorištu, Žerjavića 2 on Sundays from 11am-3pm). The brainchild of Jelena Iva Nikolić and Jelena Mikin, who discovered that there were a lot of people revitalising small gardens and growing things organically, and decided to bring them together. Also displaying their wares at this increasingly popular weekly event are cake makers, olive growers, honey producers and all manner of boutique deli enthusiasts.
With more foodie initiatives and green-conscious grocery stores cropping up all the time, there’s never been a better time to turn your back on the supermarket.