Zagreb shopping guide
In Zagreb, shopping has undergone a makeover. From being a staid and rather quaint shopping backwater, the Croatian capital can now justifiably claim to be a hub of contemporary design. But for all these recent developments, Zagreb has not lost its traditional charm. The Dolac market behind the main square is still everyone's first port of call for fresh fruit and vegetables, and second-hand record stores abound. Read on to find out where to go shopping in Zagreb.
Cross Mladost Bridge southbound on a Sunday morning and the first thing you see will be an ant-like procession of human forms moving purposefully along the River Sava embankment. It’s the weekly pilgrimage to Hrelić, a vast outdoor market that spreads itself across a gravelly lot, some 2km east of the bridge. Here a grid-plan mini-city of stalls sells everything from cheap jeans and T-shirts to footwear, no-longer-fashionable toys, second-hand sunglasses, and spare parts for machines you never knew existed. Some sellers only deal in specialised items (one offers fishing rods, another accordions); others simply set their junk out on the gravel in a disorderly pile. If you enjoy rummaging for used clothes, or dream of finding that offbeat fashion accessory that you never even knew you wanted until you saw it gleaming up at you from a dusty car-park floor, then Hrelić is most definitely for you. For a rather more genteel take on the same experience, the Sunday antiques and bric-a-brac market on Britanski trg provides the chance to browse the kind of junk that has been elevated to collectable status – old postcards, vintage magazines, second-hand books, and the kind of kitchenware your parents threw out years ago and now wish they hadn’t. Prints, militaria, old coins, folk costumes, retro furniture and genuine antiques also turn up, making Britanski trg a crucial stop-off for the determined curiosity hunter. It’s also an important Sunday social ritual, with the square’s café te
Where to shop in Dubrovnik
The Dubrovnik shopping arena is, thankfully, starting to be less dominated by the overpriced tourist shops that once dominated the city, and a few key stores are holding out against these tacky souvenir shops that line the main street of Stradun. Time Out discovers the best places to go shopping in Dubrovnik, from designer boutiques to open-air markets.
Rovinj shopping guide
Rovinj specialises in galleries and arty knick-knacks. Palatial Atelier Devescovi is where artist Dean Devescovi sells paintings with jazzy influences. Atelier Sottomuro is a super little gallery where UK-raised Jan Ejsymontt purveys her acrylic paintings and jewellery. Atelijer Galerija Brek is great for off-beat accessories. For fashion, Rovinj-born Mauro Massarotto’s Sheriff & Cherry is by far the funkiest in Istria. The Startas range of sneakers designed by Massarotto himself for the Borovo shoe company, plus sunglasses, dresses, T-shirts, bags and brooches designed by leading Croatian talents, are all available through the website – unfortunately Mauro no longer has an outlet in town. For food, Rovinj market on Trg Valdibora is open from 7am daily.
Zagreb food markets
It’s been said time and again (and not just by Time Out) that one of one of the advantages of Zagreb over other cities is the sheer abundance and variety of fresh, local foodstuffs. Zagreb’s shopping culture is still rooted in the city’s many markets, of which Dolac, directly above the main square, is the most celebrated. Seasonal fruit and veg is only part of the story: each market has a fish pavilion supplied by regular deliveries from the Adriatic. Delve into the indoor market halls below Dolac market to find all manner of deli delights, including Istrian hams, Adriatic anchovies and Slavonian salamis. This traditional epicurean scene has been joined in recent years by a plethora of health- and ecology-conscious food stores selling organic vegetables, pure fruit juices, gluten-free bread and a whole lot more besides. Further proof that there’s an environmentally friendly foodie revolution going on is provided by Mali plac na tavanu (‘The Little Market in the Attic’), which takes place in a residential attic a short walk from the centre every Saturday (in Spring and Summer the market goes open-air at Cafe U Dvorištu, Žerjavića 2 on Sundays from 11am-3pm). The brainchild of Jelena Iva Nikolić and Jelena Mikin, who discovered that there were a lot of people revitalising small gardens and growing things organically, and decided to bring them together. Also displaying their wares at this increasingly popular weekly event are cake makers, olive growers, honey producers and all
Recommended shops in Zagreb
Arguably Croatia's leading luxury boutique, Maria was launched in Dubrovnik in 2007 and opened up in Zagreb in December 2010. On sale are the latest collections by top international names across the whole spectrum of pret-à-porter collections, including Gucci, Stella McCartney and Balenciaga. It's not just a question of fancy frocks: ultra-glamorous (and ultra-expensive) shoes, bags and belts are there to be tried on too.
Designer Ana Tevsić started her own "Love, Ana" label, a line of quirky interior furnishings and accessories, in defiance of the current market crisis. This is her own sleek shop/studio; she sells a variety of her own designs, including her most famous "Chew On This" wall-hanger, and also stocks products from other promising designers, along with a variety of multilingual magazines. An interesting place to pick up something both useful and original.
Take Me Home
The aim of this exemplary little shop near the lower station of Zagreb’s funicular is to stock all those quality products made by Croatian designers that also work well as souvenirs – in the sense that they’re small enough to fit in your luggage and might also be useful once you actually get them home. There’s a lot to choose from here, from Ana Horvat’s eccentric-but-loveable animal soft toys to SexyPlexy’s wear-with-care coloured-shard necklaces. Playful present ideas include Žvig’s one-shot rakija mugs carved from walnut wood (they only stay upright when empty), and Hidden Garden pendants with real herbs inside. For those prepared to splash out on something for the home, Lidia Bosevski’s ceramics convey arty elegance; while Filip Gordon Frank’s Mini Me desk lamp is already something of a Croatian design icon.
A florist shop nominally, this is a spot where art and flowers intersect. For a tourist's purposes, Saša Šekoranja's shop is the best place to give your hosts a thank-you-gift flower arrangement that shows you both have an insider's knowledge of town and ample amounts of taste. You'll see the sign prominently above the door in the direction of Britanski trg from the main square. This is Šekoranja's flagship shop. The artist and flower magician also has a gallery, Velvet (at Dežmanova 9 – next to his café of the same name), which sells delicate design elements for the home: china, lamps, sculpture, etchings, and odd-but-welcome findings such as organic bowls made of roots, herbs and leaves.
Recommended shops in Dubrovnik
Strategically located near Stradun street, the Maria Store is one of the few places in Croatia where you can find a battery of major international names such as Givenchy, Lanvin, Valentino, Saint Lauren and Stella McCartney, all laid out in a light, relaxing space designed by Italian architect Marco Bonelli. Prices to match the quality and atmosphere on offer. Staff are approachable, though, whatever you're looking for.
The daily market, on a raised square a set of stairs up from Jelačić, has been the city's major trading place since 1926. Farmers from surrounding villages come to sell their home-made foodstuffs and some of the freshest fruit and vegetables you'll ever taste. In the covered market downstairs are butchers, fishmongers and old ladies selling the local speciality sir i vrhnje (cheese and cream). Flowers and lace are also widely available. Alongside, the renovated fish market, ribarnica, sells fresh produce every day but Monday.