Plucked from the sea or reared and cultivated on the land according to traditional methods, Croatian fish, meat and vegetables are then prepared with extra virgin olive oil, on wood-fired grills, on road-side spits and beneath slow-roasting, dome-shaped lids. The result is a simple but delicious Mediterranean or Central-European cuisine that you can find across Dalmatia, Istria and inland Croatia according to region.
Brudet
Brodetto, brudet to many Croatians, this healthy stew has many variations but essentially comprises fish and shellfish slow-cooked over an open fire, augmented by onions, vinegar and spices on a tomato base. The catch of the day is another popular element. Polenta is the classic accompaniment.
Crni rižot
Listed on nearly every Dalmatian menu, 'black risotto' is far tastier than it sounds or looks. Squid ink provides the distinctive colouring and satisfying flavour, squid and other seafood the meaty ingredients. Make sure you're familiar with your dining companion as this is the kind of dish that turns your teeth and tongue black – not great for a first date – but as crni rižot is usually prepared that morning and heated up, it'll arrive much quicker than something that might require time on the grill.
Gregada
A fish stew most associated with the island of Hvar, though you’ll find similar versions across Dalmatia, gregada is often made with scorpion fish or grouper – whatever is fresh that day is chopped into large chunks and added to a pot of generously sliced potatoes and lashings of olive oil. Chefs then add their own extras, usually parsley, but all simmer the pot on a slow heat, shaking it from time to time, keeping the chunks whole. Serve with wine and a winning sunset.
Paška janjetina
Inhabited by more sheep than humans, the island of Pag produces lamb of a particular delicacy, lean and pale pink in colour, best prepared spit-roasted. The key to this unique flavour is the milk that the young lambs are reared on, local sheep grazing on aromatic herbs in saline surroundings. Late spring and early summer are thought the best times to consume Pag lamb, the meat also marinated in rosemary, thyme and other natural herbs.
Paški sir
Local sheep grazing in the salty air, the bura wind and on vegetation particular to Pag produce milk of a flavour equally specific to this island in northern Dalmatia. Sheeps’ cheese has been produced here for centuries, generations of expertise going into each distinctive wheel you see lining the shelves of the traditional stone houses dotted alongside the fields. Matured for up to 18 months, similar in texture to Parmesan, these cheeses are then sold at markets and to restaurants, where paški sir is a regular feature as a starter or dessert.
Pašticada
A revered Dalmatian dish with culinary links to southern France, pašticada is a stew of marinated beef, prunes, figs and alcohol of some sort, wine or prosecco. A proper pašticada requires some 24 hours of preparation, including giving the meat an overnight soak in vinegar, garlic and usually bacon. Served with gnocchi, it’s a dish served on certain saints’ days or at weddings.
Peka
Ispod peke, literally translated as 'under the bell', is a classic feature on many Dalmatian menus. It’s not a dish, it’s a method of preparation involving slow-cooking under a dome-shaped lid, covered in hot ashes. For a proper peka meal, you should order from the restaurant that morning or even a day in advance. Typically, you can choose from octopus, lamb or veal, but other meats and fish are often on offer. The distinctively succulent flavours are unique, complemented by a substantial serving of potatoes. Bring an appetite.
Riba na žaru
White fish in many restaurants usually means bream or bass, although Dalmatians happily opt for dentex if it’s available. Your waiter might even present you with a platter for you to choose the particular catch you’re after. This is then put on a wood-fired grill (na žaru), with a modest coating of virgin olive oil. The traditional accompaniment is blitva, Swiss chard, an extremely healthy, spinach-like green vegetable.
Škampi buzara
Scampi from the deep Kvarner Bay are considered the best in this part of Europe, light red in colour, with thin shells and succulent meat. In Istria as well as around Kvarner, you’ll find them boiled, grilled, prepared in sauce, marinated, breaded, wrapped in Istrian ham, spit-roasted and even raw, embellished by first-class olive oil. For gourmets, there’s no better method than na buzaru, cooked in white wine, garlic, parsley, tomatoes and breadcrumbs. It’s messy – roll up your sleeves and use your hands! – but absolutely delicious with fresh bread.
Štrukli
Found in and around Zagreb and Zagorje, up to and beyond the border with Slovenia, štrukli are a cousin of strudel, filled pillows of dough served as dessert or enjoyed as a treat mid-morning or mid-afternoon. Baked or boiled, these small but hefty portions are invariably filled with cottage cheese and slathered in cream. One of the best places to try them in the capital is at the Esplanade, which prides itself on the quality of its štrukli and serves them in the elegant surroundings of a landmark hotel opened in 1925 to cater to passengers arriving on the Orient Express.
This article is sponsored by The Croatian National Tourism Board: 'Croatia Full of Life'.
