Magazinska Klet Pri staroj smokvi

There are three Magazinska Klets in Zagreb. The small, smoky original is west of the city centre. In Novi Zagreb it's aimed at blue-collar locals, so is marginally cheaper. The largest is situated immediately behind Autobusni Kolodvor, the main bus station. They've done a remarkable job in placing a courtyard here, sheltered from its unpolished surroundings. Two sides are made up by purpose-built structures which house the extra seating required in winter. But in summer, families, workers and casually dressed friends eat outside. Another facade holds a partially open-air grill, where smiling chefs prepare meats and roast huge rows of red peppers for salads. The menus at all three are similar; small plates, like tapas (only more generous), at lunch, with an all fish line up on Friday. Available all day and every day are fantastic grilled meat feasts and stews, like Teleči Repovi, veal tails cooked for ten hours in a fiery sauce of chilli, onions, paprika and garlic. Another similarity the three restaurants share is the staff. Many are Serbian, almost all here from Leskovac. It's worth turning up an hour early for your bus in order to eat at this moderately priced restaurant.