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The leafy Zrinjevac looks spectacular dressed up in fairy lights. Advent here consists of market stalls selling warm food, with a particular emphasis on traditional Croatian dishes - here you can try goulash, sour cabbage rolls, smoked leg of pig or braised cabbage with home-made pasta, and a sweet strukli for dessert. Zrinjevac's stand-out centrepiece is a majestic pavilion that hosts a regular programme of live musicians and children's entertainers.