The difference between simply wild versus wild-yet-refined is the fine line that separates local bragging rights from world acclaim. It is this struggle to find its own international identity that makes Dingač worthy of closer inspection. The question is how to meld distinctive natural resources with modern techniques to make a truly competitive product. For visitors and connoisseurs, this metamorphosis carries the excitement of watching potential excellence from inception. In 2007, a wine road linking 11 vineyards - including producers of Dingač and other masterful winemakers such as Vinarija Miloš in Ponikve - was signposted along the peninsula.
'People think only the French make good wine but the wine here is excellent,' said Goran Miličić of the Miličić Vineyard, which has its operations on the edge of Potomje, the heart of Dingač production. 'The biggest difference is that the French have four, five or more generations but we are only in our first generation, which means we have to start everything for ourselves.'
Linking Potomje to Dingač is a 400-metre (1,310-foot) tunnel, which cuts into the hill and connects the town to the grapes. It was actually built by residents with their own money during the communist era. Previously, growers had to lead donkeys up and over the hill to fill baskets and then go back again. On the other side, around the near cliff-face of Dingač, every square metre seems stuffed with vines hanging heavy with bunches of grapes. From atop the slope, the sea is a straight shot down 300 metres (985 feet). Were it not for wine, the area would seem incredibly forbidding. With the wine, it feels something like standing over a gold mine.
Dingač is one of the rare positions in Europe where you can say, more or less, that every year is a good year, says Vlado Borošić, a wine expert and the owner of the Vinoteka Bornstein boutique in Zagreb. 'But the thing is, Dingač can be even better still. They have an excellent terroir. With some serious marketing and investment, it can really be one of the top wines in the world.'