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What’s the deal with Stoneybatter?
This area feels like its own world, a quirky little fortress of cool in the heart of the city. Dubliners who’ve lived here their whole lives now mingle with trendy newcomers clambering to rent one of its cute little cottages. And on sunny days, locals and visitors alike perch by their doorways to catch some rays (most often over a glass of wine).
Happily, the ’Batter is also fast becoming one of Dublin’s most exciting foodie areas, with neighbourhood restaurants luring gourmands from all over. Whether it’s the gooey, spreadable scalda ’nduja in Grano or the vegan cheese tower at Beo Wine Bar – yep, you heard us – you can certainly see why.
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If you only do one thing…
Wander over to Phoenix Park, the largest enclosed city park in Europe, and try to spot its herds of resident fallow deer. It’s technically its own district, but the best entrance is the one in Stoneybatter, at Parkgate Street.
Hide from the rain
Browse the cute boutiques on Manor Street – you can pick up excellent gifts from local designers and artists in Moo Market, while The Lilliput Press is a brilliant little bookshop with a winning focus on Irish writers. Take a novel over to Lilliput Stores and devour it over a coffee.
Drop by Arbour Hill, a military cemetery where 14 executed leaders of the 1916 Rising were laid to rest. Next to the memorial you’ll find the Irish United Nations Veterans Association memorial garden, and there are regular guided tours, too.
Grano is run by an Italian family – the beloved Mama Roma regularly flies over to whip up a batch of fileja al pomodoro right before your eyes. Their early bird is one of the best bargains in the city, at €19 for two courses, or just €12 at lunch.
Teensy bakery Slice is the best place for doorstop-size wedges of courgette cake and dark chocolate orange squares, while coffee lovers will prefer Love Supreme, where flat whites are served alongside fat sausage rolls. Social Fabric Café is the area’s hottest brunch table – come for the killer shakshuka and brownies so good you’ll weep.
Photograph: Gareth Byrne
Part charming old boozer, part gastro pub, L. Mulligan Grocer is the place to go if you want an excellent microbrew to go with dinner – their huge Scotch egg is worth the trip alone.
The Glimmer Man is a proper Dublin pub that never disappoints, with traditional ales on tap and a cracking pint of Guinness, while buzzing newcomer The Belfry is almost always chocka with the coolest kids in town.
Wander down to the river, just into the conjoined Smithfield district, and you’ll find Token, a funky boozer with vintage arcade games (hello, Miss Pac-Man) and a cracking menu of vegan junk food – think loaded fries and hot dogs.
How to get to Stoneybatter
The Luas (tram) stops at Museum, just a few minutes’ walk away. Various bus services run from the city centre, but it only takes around 20 minutes on foot.
What else is nearby?
The happening Smithfield neighbourhood is so close, they’re practically one and the same. Here you’ll find award-winning animation houses, tip-top coffee and the best cinema in Dublin, the Lighthouse.