This place has a fascinating history. For a long time it was the flagship dining room at One Devonshire Gardens, the hotel's previous incarnation, then celeb chef Gordon Ramsay moved in during the early noughties and opened an even finer dining restaurant on the premises. This had assorted problems and closed after less than four years. In 2006 along came the Hotel du Vin chain which bought the business lock, stock and kitchen – so the dining room transformed into a much classier version of the eateries you find in other Hotel du Vin venues.
The menu here has a Modern European approach bringing main courses like truffled gnocchi with spinach, oyster mushrooms and a parmesan crisp for vegetarians; hazelnut-crusted monkfish with lemon and garlic risotto nero, and citrus dressing for fish fans; daube of beef, chanterelles and garlic pomme purée for unrepentant meat eaters. The backstory, the cachet and the cooking all combine to keep this restaurant – it's not really a bistro – on the list of Glasgow's top places to eat. The early evening prix fixe allows diners to sample its delights without going the whole à la carte hog – see website for details.