Rogano has been around for such a long time, nearly 80 years, that its reputation waxes and wanes as generations of owners, customers and staff come and go. A Glasgow institution, kitted out in the art deco style of a great 1930s passenger liner, the venue is split into oyster bar, chic café space and more formal restaurant area – all with a distinctive between-the-wars look. If it was in London, you might expect Evelyn Waugh to be seated discreetly behind a partition somewhere.
In the main restaurant, seafood is a major feature: the classics section of the à la carte offers oysters, fish soup, fruits de mer, sole, langoustine and lobster. Alternatively, you could have roast breast of grouse to start then beef fillet or venison loin for a main, chips extra, apple and bramble crumble for dessert. None of this comes cheap however and Rogano is also one of the few Scottish eateries to apply a 12.5% service charge rather than leaving the gratuity in the hands of the customer.
Alternatively the menu in the café space is much more affordable or you could sit at the oyster bar and have half a dozen – deep fried in polenta with horseradish cream – plus a glass of wine. The old place could do with some investment – and the cooking won't thrill a 21st century foodie – but even after all these decades some customers are just thrilled to step over the threshold.