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What’s the vibe?
Punchy, Mediterranean-inspired flavours and fine Scottish ingredients come to together at Margo, one of the more recent openings from the team behind Ox and Finch and Ka Pao, two of Glasgow’s most beloved restaurants. The cavernous, double-height space features industrial touches like exposed brick and metalwork, but the bespoke furniture (including leather padded banquettes and booths) keeps things cosy. Neither overly stuffy nor intimidatingly hip, Margo is the kind of place you could take a date, a business contact or your gran.
What should I order?
The menu is separated into snacks, starters, larger plates and even larger plates (think 600g of sirloin, half a duck and a whole sole) which are designed to be shared.
We kick things off with the focaccia, which is springy with a wonderfully crisp bottom and comes with a knock-out compound garlic butter. With the exception of a disappointing and rather bland cured ham, flavours here and bold and globetrotting. For our small plates, we go for a cold roast lamb served with black garlic and saag, the tender meat perfectly punched up by the vibrant green saag sauce, as well as the hand-dived Uist scallops with sobrasada and haricot beans. I’m surprised to find the scallop dish has something of a Nashville twang, the pork and paprika of the sobrasada reminding me of the classic Americana dish pork n’ beans (I mean this as a real compliment).
The half creedy carver duck comes highly recommended by our waiter and many of my friends who have already eaten at Margo, but sadly it’s not available when we visit. On the plus side, this means we have room for two of the large plates, and these end up stealing the show. The skate wing with kumquat kosho, trout roe and green peppercorns is impeccably cooked and an immediate contender for Glasgow’s prettiest dish. The lamb faggot is wonderfully rich and tender, accompanied by a cheesy polenta and a herby dressing which keeps things bright. For some greenery, get the crisp iceberg salad piled high with parmesan and for pure carby heaven, get the ratte potatoes. In fact, get two to avoid fights over the last bite.
By now you’ll be full, but push through and order a pud: the biscuity brown butter almond tart is expertly balanced with poached quince and crème fraîche, while the chocolate nemesis (a bit like a very set chocolate mousse and made with chocolate from local business Bare Bones) is so rich and dark it’s almost boozy.
What are the prices like?
Snacks start at £4.50, smaller plates range from £9-19.50 and larger plates range from £11-14.50. There are also three more substantial plates which are designed to be shared; the most expensive is the 600g sirloin on the bone with sauce margo, at £50. Cocktails sit around £10 and there is a well-priced selection of wines by the glass.
What’s nearby?
Our beloved Sebb’s is just downstairs. Here you’ll find food cooked over flames and exceptional cocktails in a vibey setting. An early dinner at Margo followed by a gig at the world-famous Barrowland Ballroom (just 15 minutes away) would make for a pretty unbeatable Glaswegian evening. Alternatively, head to The Pot Still, one of Glasgow’s best-loved whisky bars, a ten-minute walk in the other direction.