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This fantastic little lunchtime lokanta halfway between the Tophane and Fındıklı tram stops is Turkish home-cooking at its best. Run by a staff of stout ladies in frilly aprons, it mainly serves hungry workers from the nearby insurance companies. Create your own mixed plate from the countertop selection of fresh salads, sauces, beans and vegetables, priced by weight; a full plate usually comes in at around 10 TL. Be sure to try the spicy kısır (Turkish bulgur salad); it’s truly wonderful. Meat dishes are also available, but suitably separated from the delicious variety of legumes. Immodestly sized slices of cake are offered for dessert if you’re not too stuffed already. No alcohol.
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