An Autumn Delight: noi
Hanging out with Esra Mutlu and fellow cook, Zeynep Moroğlu, at their water-side cafe in Bebeköy is much like relaxing in one’s own back yard. The lush greenery provides the kind of breath of fresh air craven by every Istanbullite between the day-to-day rush around the city. The café has already given us more than our fill of pleasant, fresh breakfast dishes, using the finest ingredients in everything from the granola to the bread.
The pair, who puts the pleasure of good food above all else, has established a garden bistro (with a glass indoor area) where lunch time and evening meals can be gorged upon with joy in no small part thanks to the work of Beril Şanal – head of the kitchen here, and a former student of the Culinery Institute of America. The eatery gets its strength and spirit from the hard work put in by the three ladies acting together.
Noi is connected to chic food group Nupeople, which includes a number of establishments as rustic as they are elegant and charming.
There is a slight difference between the lunchtime and evening menu, with the former consisting of pastas and risottos served with salad and bread, and the latter including starter, main dishes and dessert set menus. Whatever time of day or night though, there’s no wrong time to go.
In fact, some of the delights that await you inside are on display to wet your appetite at the door, hung near the entrance like a series of tantalizing still-lifes. Do yourself a favor and enjoy something from their autumn menu outdoors, accompanied by a gentle breeze. At least make time to be there for brunch on the weekend. Merve Arkunlar