Tiraje Teras

LOCATED ON THE TOP FLOOR of Nish Palas in Nişantası, Tiraje Teras offers one of the most impressive views in the city, looking out over the neighborhood and beckoning toward the Bosphorus and the Anatolian side of Istanbul. Chef Bahadır Abul, who runs the kitchen at Tiraje Teras as well as that of Glens, the Italian restaurant on the ground floor of Nish Palas, generates a keen energy and discusses the menu with a sense of gratification indicating that he loves his line of work. There is a major influence of the Aegean region in the kitchen. Olives come from Urla while white cheese is brought in from Alaçatı. Among our favorite mezes was atom (spicy peppers in yogurt), the level of spice of which was quite balanced. The Girit ezmesi (27 TL) is made with lor and Ezine cheese and enhanced with truffle oil. The lakerda (32 TL) is inspired by a smoked salmon recipe and is prepared with cilantro seeds and orange oil and is delicious. The soft touch of the octopus salad (68 TL) is a testament to the chef’s skill. In terms of hot appetizers, the Izmir atom kokoreç (55 TL) is recommended. The iç midye tempura (28 TL) is served under a layer of avocado puree. Come to Tiraje before the sun sets and be calmly serenaded by the sweet meyhane music playing on the stereo before sampling the excellent meze served here.