An American vegan chef's guide to Johannesburg

A home away from home - that’s the feeling American Vegan Chef Sunni Speaks first experienced when she landed in South Africa in 2022. 

On her way to Gaborone, Botswana, for a charity event, Sunni had a layover in Johannesburg, a stop that would change her relationship with the city forever. 

“I was coming to Botswana and had a layover. It’s so funny how God works. I literally said, ‘You know, I’m tired. I’m just going to stay in my room.’ I think I landed around six o’clock, and my flight to Gaborone was at ten the next morning. I was on the phone with my friend, and she was like, ‘No, you’ve got one night in Johannesburg. You have to go out. You have to live it up. You’ve got to party.’” 

Sunni was staying at the Marriott Protea Hotel and decided to take her friend’s advice. 

“I went downstairs and spoke to the staff. I told them, ‘I want to go out, but I want to go where the locals go. I don’t want any tourist spots,” she said. 

She explains that tourist-focused spaces often feel curated to appeal to international guests, rather than offering an authentic cultural experience. 

“Sometimes when you go on tours, you end up at very touristy places, and I don’t really like that vibe. I want to feel like I’m part of the culture when I’m in a different place.” 

Fun, Entertainment and History

The hotel staff suggested Emperors Palace, and Sunni decided to give it a try. 

“I just wanted to see how the party scene was and experience South Africans. I went there, hung out, and had an amazing time. South Africans are so welcoming,” she says. 

The following day, she continued to Botswana. On her return to Johannesburg, she had another layover, one she used to explore more of the city. 

She visited the Apartheid Museum, where she learned more about South Africa’s painful history. As a Black American, the experience deeply moved her. 

Restaurants in Johannesburg

Before heading back home, Sunni wanted to try a vegan restaurant in Johannesburg. That’s when she discovered The Vegan Chef, a restaurant she would later fall in love with, and eventually return to for a kitchen takeover. 

“Before I left, I went to The Vegan Chef in Midrand. It’s kind of like a takeaway spot. They have a couple of chairs outside, but it’s mostly takeaway.” Despite arriving just before closing time, the staff welcomed her and prepared a meal. She also met the restaurant’s owner, Chef Sue Gajathar. During their conversation, Sunni shared her dream of one day returning to South Africa to do a kitchen takeover featuring her signature vegan oxtail dish. As the saying goes, the rest is history...Since then, Sunni has returned to South Africa year after year. She has done her kitchen takeover a couple of times at the popular vegan restaurant. 

Sunni says there is something special about South African cuisine. She has tried a few vegan restaurants in the city. Amongst those she also loved were Kaylee's Eatery in Bedfordview, which closed down, and the Fussy Vegan. 

Apart from vegan restaurants, Sunni says one of her other favourite dining experiences was at a restaurant in Soweto.

“I went to Soweto and found this restaurant - it’s a buffet-style spot. They do serve meat, but they also have vegetable sides. The cabbage was amazing. The samp was so delicious, I kept asking, ‘Are you sure this doesn’t have meat in it?’ And they were like, ‘No, we don’t make it with meat.’ I was honestly shocked at how good it was. The sautéed vegetables were great, the salad was fresh, and even the dombolo [steamed bread] was good.” 

Great Vibes

One of her top recommendations for anyone visiting Johannesburg and wanting to experience the city’s vibe is Lesedi Cultural Village. 

“I’ve been there twice, and every time the experience feels different. Even though some of the information is the same, you’re learning it in a new way from a different guide. I love the dancing. I love learning history through people. At Lesedi, you learn about the Zulu people, the Sotho people, why they lived in the mountains, and the history of Shaka Zulu. I really love learning that way. Lesedi Village is definitely one of my top recommendations.” 

She also has a deep love for Maboneng. 

“I love Maboneng. Don’t turn down Maboneng. That part of the CBD is like New York City — it never sleeps. I lived in Maboneng for a while. By 5 p.m., the music is already playing, and it doesn’t stop until 3 a.m. Unless it’s Saturday going into Sunday, then it stops at 3 a.m. and starts again at 9 a.m. with church music. I just love it. It’s vibrant. I love being in the dance spaces and seeing what’s going on.” 

Favourite Neighbourhood, Market and Park

When it comes to neighbourhoods, Hyde Park holds a special place in her heart. 

“I really want to move to Hyde Park. Aesthetically, I love the way it looks. I love walking around the neighbourhood. It’s absolutely amazing.” 

Johannesburg’s green spaces also left a lasting impression on her. While she can’t recall the exact name of the botanical garden she visited, the experience stood out. 

“It’s huge. You can walk around, see rare earth minerals in the ground, beautiful flowers, bees, trees, people having picnics, and lots of running water. I love that.” 

She also enjoys spending time in the CBD and says that when buying handcrafted items, she likes visiting the Prison Market, where she finds a variety of activities. 

One amusing observation Sunni strongly believes in is that Joburgers are musically gifted. 

“I love the fact that everybody can sing here, especially because I can’t. I don’t want to spread false information, but I’m standing ten toes down on the fact that all South Africans can sing. I don’t know if you have choir in high school or what, but everybody can sing here.” 

In a Nutshell...

Ultimately, South Africa has become much more than a travel destination for her. 

“I’ve been to 25 countries, but South Africans are very warm and very welcoming. That’s why I’ve been back so many times. This is my fourth time here. It feels like home, like a second home.”

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