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It's a constant battle for the prize for best 'torreznos' in Madrid, and it's a tough one to win. In case you don't know, torreznos are strips of bacon that are cooked so they're crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside. There are loads of variants, and the most traditional are 'torreznos de Soria'. Among those in the photo finish for best in town are the ones you'll find from Francisco Bononato's El Escaparate in the Vallehermoso market. Bononato was encouraged by Higinio Gómez, a poultry supplier for large restaurants and star chefs, so it's not unusual to see on the El Escaparate menu, as brief as it is tempting, a heartbreakingly good squab breast. Open all week, from breakfast and until the first weekend drinks, the place shines during aperitif time. The scene is set with a champion 'gilda' (usually pickled 'guindilla' pepper, anchovy, and olive on a toothpick) and comes to a finale with their 'callos' (tripe) in a succulent sauce. Dessert comes from the cold kitchen of Fernando Sáenz in the form of ice cream – but what ice cream! Plus, premium tinned treats and a select wine cellar mean it's hard to go wrong at El Escaparate.