Kappo

After a few set options come out of the kitchen, the festival of raw food arrives. If it weren't for the facts that you came out  to eat and that the Tasmanian trout nigiri you just picked up with your fingers is a sure gateway to his omakase sushi, you might be riveted by Mario Payan's every move, which seem to be on a loop. He works with harmony and the firm and precise moves of a martial artist. 'Each texture requires its own pressure placed on the knife. Each porosity, each season a product goes through matters and makes it different, and not only in flavour. I enjoy being close to the scales, I am increasingly convinced that it's my area.' Every day, the Madrid-based itamae works with around 20 types of fish and seafood, his own recipe for rice, and excellence as an unquestionable dogma. 'I don't ask my suppliers about prices, only quality.' Maximum respect.