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[title]Malasaña has as many faces as it does street corners. There’s the neighbourhood of design shops, cocktail bars, specialty coffee shops, venues that appear on social media before they’ve even finished setting up the bar and, of course, the old-school taverns that have been here for generations. Everything happens here and, with so much on offer, finding somewhere good to eat can become a bit of a dilemma. Especially when you’re looking for something more than just brunch or the burger of the moment. Because Malasaña is a great place to eat. And there’s plenty of it. You just need to know where to look. That’s why Time Out Madrid has teamed up with Devour Tours, an international company specialising in food tours, to organise a guided tapas walk through the heart of Malasaña.
The 'Taste Madrid: The Time Out & Devour Tapas Tour' takes place from Tuesday to Saturday, starting at Plaza del Dos de Mayo. More specifically, in front of Sin Clon Ni Son (Pl. del Dos de Mayo, 10). At 6:30pm, introductions begin, giving you the chance to get to know your fellow food lovers for the evening. The tour costs €99 per adult and €89 for children, with a maximum of 12 people per tour. It lasts three hours, until 9:30pm, and takes you to some of the most iconic spots in Malasaña, with a wide-ranging food offering that includes tapas, tacos, gildas and drinks. In other words, a tasting menu on the move. You can buy tickets and book the tour at this link.
As Nicola Cox, Vice President of Sales at Devour, explains: "Time Out knows what makes a city tick. Devour knows how to bring its stories to life. Together, we're turning that insider knowledge into an experience you can taste, share and be part of. In Madrid, that means pulling up a chair at a local spot, meeting the people behind them and discovering the stories, flavours and places that make this city so much fun to explore".
The tour starts at Casa Camacho, one of those essential stops for understanding the most traditional side of Madrid. In this historic Malasaña bar, run by three siblings, the tour begins as tradition dictates: with a Yayo, a mix of vermouth, gin and soda that has become its signature drink. To accompany it, two classic bar snacks that need little introduction: vinegar-cured anchovies and gildas, small bites packed with flavour that pair perfectly with the drink’s sweet and bitter notes.
That ability Malasaña has to constantly reinvent itself and leave anonymity behind comes into play at the next stop, Mami Tacos, where the tour shifts gears and takes your taste buds to Mexico through the flavours of Patricia and Gabriela's family cooking. The culinary highlight comes in the form of two tacos: the birria de res, served with its characteristic consommé for dipping, and the Taco Papi, topped with guacamole and a touch of garden freshness. The bites come with different sauces for an extra kick of intensity, while local draft beer is served to drink.
Afterwards, we head to Casa Tabacos, on Calle de la Palma. The establishment belongs to a small family of venues that has understood Malasaña'ss love of traditional tavern culture particularly well. At the helm are Sergio Ochoa and Julián Lara, who are also behind other local bars such as El Maño and Casa Macareno. Casa Tabacos presents itself as a traditional restaurant with a simple menu and a small avant-garde twist. Accompanied by a good Jumilla wine, with its characteristic notes of black fruit and Mediterranean herbs, the house speciality, cocido croquettes, arrives at the table, followed by confit artichokes and Iberian ham. To finish, there are padrón peppers which, as Arantxa, our local guide, points out, "unos pican y otros no (some are hot and some are not)".
The tour comes to an end at Casa Clavel, where it wraps up with a glass of sparkling natural wine and a selection of three Spanish cheeses: Majorero, Mahón and Idiazabal. To round off the feast, the restaurant serves its seafood ensaladilla on a pico, one final bite to put the finishing touch on a journey through some of the neighbourhood's most interesting flavours.
Four venues, four different ways of understanding Malasaña. Casa Camacho represents the time when the neighbourhood was still relatively unknown; Mami Tacos reflects the internationalisation of its flavours and experiences; Casa Tabacos showcases its ability to evolve and reinvent itself; and, finally, Casa Clavel represents what the area is today. And perhaps this is the best way to eat your way through Malasaña: don’t try to decide whether the neighbourhood is traditional, modern, classic, gastronomic or nightlife-focused. It’s all of those things at once.
