[category]
[title]
The moment I sunk my fork into the expertly cooked halibut caught just a few kilometres away, served in a floating dining room surrounded by the Great Bear Rainforest—the largest temperate coastal rainforest in the world, spanning 6.4 million hectares—I thought: “This is perfection.”
But that’s because I had no idea what was in store during my three-day retreat at Nimmo Bay Resort, located two hours north of Vancouver.
Read more: Time Out Market Vancouver is officially open
Not only is the remote setting beyond stunning, but the culinary program, created and executed by a team of 30 chefs, is nothing short of extraordinary.
I’ll admit I hesitated before plunging into the 45-degree waters of the archipelago, despite wearing a wetsuit thick enough to make me feel invincible. But it was worth it once I spotted a harmless one-ton sea lion, and dove in headfirst to gather sea urchins in their natural habitat—swimming among starfish while letting the gentle current carry me along.
Back on the boat I dug into fresh sea urchin roe, opened seconds earlier by none other than my guide of choice—co-owner and founder Craig Murray’s son, Fraser. Along the way, he had also managed to snag a bottle of champagne stashed in the cool ocean.
A dream pairing in a dream setting. And the day had barley begun.
My adventures continued: shrimp fishing, harvesting sea cucumbers, catching rockfish and sablefish, and enjoying an unforgettable lunch aboard a custom-built boat in the middle of the water known as the Ocean Table.
How do you get to Nimmo Bay?
To reach Nimmo Bay, guests must use the resort’s private transfers: a roughly one-hour charter flight from Vancouver to Port Hardy, followed by a 20-minute seaplane journey to the resort, which is accessible only by air or sea.
At Nimmo Bay, everything that reaches your plate has travelled to get there. Without any nearby producers or artisans, two deliveries a week supply the roughly 100 employees who keep the resort running—along with the 20 or so guests.
Despite the resort’s remote location, the culinary team makes a point of working as much as possible with Vancouver-based artisans, following a seasonal, market-driven approach to cooking.
With a minimum three-night stay, the chefs don’t have the luxury of repeating themselves. The dining experience is new every evening, ranging from a Bistro night to a traditional crab boil or tasting menu—or simply whatever guests are craving. The team goes above and beyond to accommodate requests whenever possible.
Sitting at the chef’s counter on my last night, I was treated to a stunning scallop dish sliced lengthwise into three delicate pieces, topped with a house-made XO sauce, resting in a light almond milk broth and finished with two distinct oils.
A melt-in-your-mouth lacquered duck paired with a rich beet mole followed. And for dessert, Philippe Gauthier presented an impossibly beautiful shiso sorbet served over a poppy seed crumble and wild cranberry compote.
I never imagined anyone could eat this well so far from civilization.
One detail particularly stayed with me: although Nimmo Bay remains relatively unknown among Quebec travellers—and Canadians from Eastern Canada in general—the culinary and service teams include a strong representation of Quebec talent, many of whom return season after season with genuine enthusiasm.
How much does a stay at Nimmo Bay cost?
A stay at the eco-friendly luxury Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort in British Columbia typically costs between $2,799 CAD and more than $3,300 CAD per person, per night.
The $15,000 experience ? Arriving by seaplane and catching your first glimpse of the cabins’ signature red roofs surrounded by wilderness is worth it.
The resort has 9 cabins in total—6 waterfront locations and three tucked deeper into the forest, surrounded by the sounds of the nearby waterfall. That same waterfall supplies the property with drinking water and renewable energy through a Pelton wheel that remains in operation today.
Days at Nimmo Bay follow the rhythm of nature: morning yoga sessions accompanied by the sound of rain falling on the wooden lodge, rainforest hikes through towering centuries-old and even millennia-old trees, and foraging for herbs and plants with a guide before brewing them into tea beside the river.
There’s also kayaking in the calm bay in search of great blue herons and sea lions. Everywhere you look, the landscape is defined by mountains and fjords—a setting that is almost impossible not to be moved by.
Helicopter or seaplane tours, fishing excursions followed by chef-prepared beachside meals, massages… the list of optional experiences seems almost endless.
More than 40 years ago, Craig Murray transformed the property into his family’s fishing camp—an authentic, no-frills operation typical of the “meat and potatoes” fishing lodges of the era.
The second generation reinvented the experience, elevating it to a level that most people would never associate with such a remote location.
Today, the resort welcomes only a small number of guests, and chances are you’ll have the opportunity to share a drink with Fraser Murray and his wife, Becky, whose constant presence and genuine hospitality are at the heart of the experience.
They’ll gladly share the story of this remarkable family adventure—just as they did with me.
For more information about Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort, click here.
RECOMMENDED:
Best weekend getaways from Montreal worth the escape
Ultimate guide to the best things to do in Montreal right now
Best hiking and parks in and around Montreal