NJ is a red sauce and mozzarella kind of state, with Italian-American restaurants dotting every street corner. At Chef Joey Baldino’s Zeppoli, however, Sicily is the muse. With just 35 seats, this spare-yet-warm space skips white-tablecloths and pretense. All the better to savor the magic emerging from the open kitchen: panzanella with Sicilian anchovies, classic spaghetti vognole, stewed rabbit perfumed with oregano and rosemary. The Sicilian Fisherman’s stew is haunting.