The Marx Dormoy area in the 18th arrondissement is a real melting-pot of cultures and architecture. The striking modernity of the Halles Pajol, with its trendy shops and bistros, contrasts markedly with the weirdly picturesque tower blocks that loom over the railway track – not to forget the colourful Rue Riquet, seemingly always under construction, and yet always packed with local shoppers.
Amid all this buzz, La Vieille Pie is an oasis of calm throughout the working day. From 8am, regulars at this humming bar sip on cafés at the counter, then brunch slightly later on, lunch at midday, and enjoy aperitifs from the early evening. The bar hasn’t succumbed to the siren call of gentrification just yet – although the décor is on trend, the prices remain quite reasonable.
The range of draft beers is impressive for a local hangout, and they even produce their own eponymous pale ale (just €5 a pint). If you know your beer you’ll be happy with the Punk, a delicious Scottish IPA or the Chouffe (€7.50 a pint), while the wine menu offers an impressive selection of reds, whites and rosés. Team your drinks with a platter piled high with finger food (€10), or perhaps a burger or a bagel.
TRANSLATION: FLORA HUDSON