It’s rare to live out the fashion fantasies of a top designer, but that’s the promise here. Le Petit Moulin was Christian Lacroix’ first haute couture hotel and he put all his crazy personality into it. As a result, this decadent, Insta-worthy boutique retreat brightens up the dullest wintry day in Paris. It helps that this daring creation is rooted in the city’s creative quarter.
Admire the gilded lobby ceiling, a mini masterpiece dating from the hotel’s previous incarnation as an elegant boulangerie. The story goes that this 17th-century building began life as Paris’ first boulangerie and was also where writer Victor Hugo would come to buy his baguette. Today, the hotel is a listed building, secreted behind the original elegant black-and-gold bakery shopfront.
Lacroix did the décor of Le Petit Moulin in 2005, and it feels distinctly retro, even if the hotel’s had subtle revamps since then. The stage-set of a sitting room, a whimsical take on a French literary salon, will still bring a smile to your face. Unsurprisingly, Lacroix has dabbled in design for the theatre, trains and trams, as well as opera houses and hotels.
Why stay at Le Petit Moulin?
Welcome to an eye-catching hotel with the feel-good factor and a spirit of adventure. As Lacroix says, ‘Each room is only the start of a story.’ This is a boutique retreat for repeat guests who treat it as their Parisian home from home. The hotel feels like an insider secret and appeals to sophisticated city-savvy couples, with a younger vibe than many rival hotels.
Unlike most cosy but cramped boutique hotels in Le Marais, Le Petit Moulin boasts enticing public spaces which mix theatrical trompe l’oeil effects with bold splashes of colour. Lacroix’s whimsical style mixes old and new, with clashing patterns and quirky fabrics creating a surprisingly harmonious result, even in the cosier attic bedrooms. In short, if Le Marais is the fashionista hub of Paris, here you’re staying in the fashion-dome, a genuine designer-created hotel.
What are the rooms like at Le Petit Moulin?
Even the smallish attic rooms are bursting with character, opening onto a patchwork of Parisian rooftops. As each space is the product of Christian Lacroix’ feverish imagination, some rooms will appeal more than others so look online and ponder particular options. The difference between classic and superior rooms is rather relative as much depends on personal taste: unless you demand lots of space, go for the design rather than the room category.
That said, be flexible: with a wacky world-class designer, surprise is part of the picture. If in doubt, succumb to designer dreams – and don’t expect Lacroix’ bedroom universe to necessarily align with yours. Bathrooms tend to be spacious and dramatically lit, with bath-tubs or showers, including romantic touches such a claw-foot bath-tub. I-Pod docking stations are also on hand should you feel the need for a little Edith Piaf to get into the old-school Parisian mood.
What is the food like at Le Petit Moulin?
Given the hotel’s heritage as a former bakery, the bread and pastries are suitably delicious, with the flakiest croissants and speciality breads. From French farmhouse cheeses to fresh figs and cold cuts, breakfast is a feast. While there’s no onsite restaurant, given the glut of cafes and bars in Le Marais, you’re spoilt for choice, with no shortage of tips from the staff.
The hotel’s honesty bar, set in a bold, playfully retro space, is the place to sip a glass of Champagne before hitting the town. Or unwind over a Cognac while contemplating the kaleidoscopic decor.
What is the service like at Le Petit Moulin?
Most guests praise the caring and conscientious staff, blessed with the personal touch. The tone is set by the confident but relaxed manager but extends to the warm and helpful receptionists. In this couples-centred boutique hotel, someone is always on hand to open a bottle of bubbly or to ensure that a special anniversary is remembered.
What are the facilities like at Le Petit Moulin?
As in most Marais boutique hotels, services trump facilities. It’s all about the personal touch - and the new best friend you might make around midnight in the honesty bar. Formal perks include coffee machines and complimentary bicycles, as well as free access to the swish spa at the Pavillon de la Reine on nearby Place des Vosges.
What’s the area like around Le Petit Moulin?
The hotel is set in the hipster Haut-Marais district, which still has some gutsy, ungentrified pockets and a neighbourhood food scene. As a greedy, good-value option, Le Marché des Enfants Rouges embraces a food court and street restaurants, in the earthiest part of the district. In the other direction, towards the Hotel de Ville and the river, awaits Eataly, the equally good-value Italian food court and restaurant complex.
Art and eating can be combined in the charming Carnavelet Museum, which showcases Parisian heritage and period interiors – and conveniently has an arty café in the gardens. As for shopping haunts, the Marais is a mecca for creatives, embracing designers, artists and fashionistas, with all well-served by the local vintage boutiques, indie stores and artisanal perfumeries. At the grander end of the scale, the aristocratic Place des Vosges offers a tempting selection of old-school bars and galleries to offset any worthy museum visits.
Why you should book a stay at Le Petit Moulin
This cosy retreat soon feels like your Parisian pied-a-terre (admittedly grander than mine).
The one-off bedrooms are matched by charmingly playful public spaces. Look out for the armchair concealing a trompe l’oeil bookcase, reflecting the designer’s eclectic approach to fashion history. It’s all surprisingly harmonious and good-value for this sought-after area.
For fans of fashion and design, the hotel is a testament to Christian Lacroix, a boho creator and a baroque prince of fashion. The iconic couturier has dipped into the dressing up box of history in every room, possibly with a liberal splattering of leopard print. It’s weird but it works. As Lacroix says of his own work: ‘That’s what I love – sophisticated simplicity.’
DETAILS
Address: Hotel du Petit Moulin, 29/31, rue de Poitou, 75003 Paris
Price: Classic rooms from €350 per night, Superior rooms from €400 and Junior Suite (just one) from €700
Closest transport: Metro Filles du Calvaire or Saint-Sebastien-Froissart
Book now: Click here