To escape the Orsay's crowds, but still take in awe-inspiring art, head to the nearby Musée Maillol. Dina Vierny was 15 when she met Aristide Maillol and became his principal model for the next decade, idealised in such sculptures as Spring, Air and Harmony. In 1995 she opened this delightful museum, exhibiting Maillol's drawings, engravings, pastels, tapestry panels, ceramics and early Nabis-related paintings, as well as the sculptures and terracottas that epitomise his calm, modern classicism.Vierny also set up a Maillol Museum in the Pyrenean village of Banyuls-sur-Mer. This Paris venue also has works by Picasso, Rodin, Gauguin, Degas and Cézanne, a whole room of Matisse drawings, rare Surrealist documents and works by naïve artists.Vierny has also championed Kandinsky and Ilya Kabakov, whose Communal Kitchen installation recreates the atmosphere of Soviet domesticity. Monographic exhibitions are devoted to modern and contemporary artists. Last year saw a fascinating exhibition of death's heads from Caravaggio to Damien Hirst.
Follow our guide to the best non-touristy cultural attractions, restaurants and shops around the Orsay museum. Rather annoyingly, the area around the museum lacks decent cafés, as much of the surrounding buildings are given over to government institutions. So for endless rows of watering holes, we recommend heading ten minutes along rue de l'Université to the Saint-Germain quarters, where you'll find venerable institutions like La Palette.
For information of the Musée d'Orsay and it's wonderful 19th-century collections, including its world-class displays of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art click here.