How should one go about distinguishing the social strata in Lebanon or Syria? Well the best way is to look at what’s on their plates. Take mejaderah for example; cracked wheat, lentils, crispy crunchy fried onions and yoghurt. If you’re middle class, you add an omelette. If you’re at the top of the pecking order, you add meatballs seasoned with cumin, finely chopped peppers and tomato sauce.
And this is exactly what At Homs, (the new gourmet canteen near Colonel Fabien metro) has got going on. While the décor ticks all the 2016 boxes (wood, wood, wood…and pastels), more enthusiasm has gone into the meticulous cooking. Starting with a light, fresh tabbouleh then the staple kefta (minced beef seasoned with sesame sauce and pomegranate cream with vermicelli rice), which is very good but lacks seasoning. The desserts – delicious cakes – keep things on the straight and narrow.
Everything is great value; a starter, a main and a starter or dessert plus drink is €11, with a sandwich and drink for €6. There’s also a nicely balanced mezzé plate for €10. A special mention goes to the warm welcome given by the Lebanese-Syrian owner, whose canteen pays a hearty – and heartfelt – tribute to the Syrian city of Homs.
TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE
