An elegant little pavilion with a bright frontage, retractable doors, a veranda, 71 rue de la Folie Méricourt look more like a lived-in house, than a restaurant. Inside, stone walls and chic minimalism complement the plants dotted about.
We sit downstairs for lunch, the bistro part of this gastro ensemble. Underfoot, a window reveals a well-stocked cellar. As part of the €25 three-course set menu, we get gougères (savoury choux pastry balls) on a camembert emulsion, then mushroom fricassée and a slow-cooked egg, perfectly accompanied by a glass of saumur (€7). Chanterelle, pleurotus, trumpet and shiitake mushrooms serve as a garnish for this slightly salty broth, but our palate is soothed by the creaminess of the egg. Then a hare stew with liver, pine nuts and parsley. Being game, the hare is extrememly rich, only increased by the liver sauce. It’s a shame the bland pasta couldn’t balance out those flavours.
The final course brings us back to the botanical side of things: berry jelly, sprinkled with verveine and sesame financiers, a perfectly masterful dessert. Botanique is surprising; expect to embark on a new gastronomical experience whenever you stop by for lunch.
TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE