A true Butte-aux-Cailles institution, Chez Gladines has become just as famous for its generous portions of Basque-inspired cusine as for its queue – and has now cast its net to four other addresses in the city. After 8pm, expect to queue for between 30 and 45 minutes for a table, but more often than not, it’s worth it.
Amid the jovial hustle and bustle, serving staff offset the wait with their friendliness and efficiency. Seated elbow-to-elbow at small gingham-clothed tables, we become best friends with our neighbours for the night, as we feast on vast, well-executed French southwestern dishes. The €16 bavette steak, accompanied by their famous potatoes, is cooked to perfection and the house speciality of Cantal veal escalope with mushroom sauce and potatoes (€16.50) is monumental. Just before we’re forced to undo our top button, the waiter even joins us for a final glass of Irouléguy red (€13.50 by the pichet).
Chez Gladines is not the place for fine cuisine, but the likelihood is that you’ll be back again and again for its charmingly chaotic atmosphere and lavish comfort food.
TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE